BOOKS BY REV. ROBERT N. BARRETT. 



"The Child of the Ganges," A Tale of the Judson Mis- 
sion. 12mo., 358 pp. Cloth. Illustrated. $1.25. 

"A new putting of the experiences of Dr. Judson and others 
in the marvel of missions by the American Baptists in Burma. 
The story-form keeps close to the history, and is attracti/e." 
— Missionainf Review of the World. 

"The story is readable, entertaining-, and full of information. 
. . . The book deserves a wide circulation in families and 
Sunday-school libraries." — John A. Broadus. 



<*Iii the Land of the Sunrise,'* A Story of Japan. This 
gives a view of Japan from the earliest times to the present 
day, and pictures the characteristics of that remarkable land 
with its peculiar people in an interesting story. It is unique in 
its plan. 

"It is the best book ever written on Japan." — Miss Annie 
Claggett, ToMo, Japan. 

"It gives an accurate history of Old Japan, and also shows 
her present progress toward civilization." — Prof. Kinya Oka- 
jima, Kagoshima, Japan. 

Both books treat their respective subjects in an accurate and 
pleasing manner, and are entirely without denominational bias, 
being equally acceptable to all Protestant Christians. Sent 
post-paid from this office on receipt of price. 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 



A STORY OF A JAPANESE FAMILY 
AND THE WONDERFUL 
LAND THEY LIVE IN. 






BY ROBERT N. BARRETT, TH.D. 

Author of "THE CHILD OF THE GANGES.' 




LOUISVILLE, KY.: 1^ (TQ^ "vC^^ 



BAPTIST BOOK CONCERN. y 

1893. / 



Copyright, 189s, 
Baptist Book Concern, Louisville, Ky, 



<^^\ 

->^ 




Electrotyped 

BY ROBERT ROWELL, 

LOUISVILLE, KY. 



PRONUNCIATION. 



ALL LETTERS SOUNDED. 



a, as in father. 
e-ei, as in prey. 
i, as in machine. 
o, as in bowl. 
u, as 00 in fool. 
ai, as i in bite. 
ch, as in chin. 
0', as ng in linger 

(except at beginning ). 
h, fully aspirated as in he. 
hi, almost like sh. 

■ 

Japanese words have no variations for number and person. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Chap. I. Love's First View 11 

Chap. II. The Miyai— They Meet 20 

Chap. III. The Home-bringing 28 

Chap. IV. The Lore of the Samurai 40 

Chap. V. The Revolution 49 

Chap. VT. Beginning of a New Era 56 

Chap. VII. In Kioto 62 

Chap. VIII. On the Tokaido 12 

Chap. IX. Life in Yokohama 82 

Chap. X. A Pilgrimage to Nikko 93 

Chap. XI. Among the Ainu 108 

Chap. XII. A Painful Discovery 117 

Chap. XIII. Christ in the Family 127 

Chap. XIV. Life in the Capital : 133 

Chap. XV. Elevating the Masses 142 

Chap. XVI. Off for Harvard 149 

Chap. XVII. After Four Years 155 

Chap. XVIII. A New Movement of the Young People 163 

Chap. XIX. The Light Grows Brighter 169 

Chap. XX. Outlook Before the War 173 

. Chap. XXI. Conflict and Victory 180 

Appendix. Literature on Japan 190 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Dedication 3 

A River Scene 13 

In Bed 20 

Tea Girl 27 

Mr. Kimura's Garden 36 

Hara-Kiri 56 

Carrying Baby 57 

Shitenoji Temple and Pag'oda 63 

Mikado's Palace and Gardens 65 

The Great Bell 69 

Dai Butsu 78 

Yokohama and Harbor 80 

Art Gallery 83 

Street in Yokohama 84 

Basket Maker on Way to Market 86 

Bridge in Kioto 70 

Halting for Refreshments 76 

Mt. Fuji 77 

Sacred Bridge 94 

Approach to the Temple, Nikko 97 

Yomeimoii Gateway 100 

Nearer View of Yomeimon 101 

Golden Shrine of lyeyasu. 103 

Tomb of lyeyasu 105 

Ainu Men 112 

At Dinner 129 

A Modern Improvement 134 

Kiku (Chrysanthemum) 157 

Girl and Samisen 163 

Priest and Assistant 165 

Y. M. C. A. Hall 176 

Sayonara 189 



PREFACE. 

THE AUTHOR does not hope to add any new in- 
formation on the subject of Japan, nor is the 
present volume intended for critics and scholars, but 
for thousands of our people who really know very 
little of the country and its people. I have simply 
designed to give to such a pleasant introduction to 
one of the most remarkable, as well as one of the 
most important nations in the world, and then refer 
them to books better suited to a critical study. 

Among the many books written about Japan a few 
are by thoughtful men and women, and are the 
results of mature study and sensible observation. 
Others are but the ephemeral ravings of pleasure- 
seekers who look upon the Japanese as a nation of 
artistic clowns, whose sole destiny in the world is to 
furnish amusement for the thousands of "globe- 
trotters" who annually pass through their flowery 
land. It never occurs to the latter that these have 
souls to be saved or lost, and they regret to see the 
breaking up of the old fascinating immorality, much 
of which can not even be referred to in print. 

Even among the best books it is almost impossible 
to obtain one of convenient size, and at reasonable 
cost, that gives anything like a rounded conception 
of the country and the people as a whole. Most all 
deal with special topics; some discuss the Geography, 



viii FBEFAGE. 

others the History, or the Women, Children, &c. 
Hence, in order to get a just conception, you must 
read several books on different features. The pres- 
ent volume is designed to fill that want. It looks at 
the country and the people from every standpoint, 
and in an impartial spirit. It avoids the extremes of 
those who, on the one hand, despise Christianity as a 
factor in shaping the nation's progress; and that of 
others who are zealous for religion, but fail to give 
the people themselves due credit. We should be fair 
to both sides. Japan is the strategic point of the 
Orient. Through her we are to develop and evan- 
gelize China, Corea and Tibet. Thus "Japan and 
the Japanese" well deserve our attention. 

The book is written in the form of a story, true to 
life, and dealing with the subject in a way not hither- 
to attempted. The Author is grateful to learn that 
his former book has been instrumental in leading 
some to give their lives to the evangelization of the 
world, and it is his prayerful hope that the present 
little volume may inspire some to labor for those in- 
teresting* people whom he has learned to love, both 
from association and from history. 

THE AUTHOR. 

Louisville, Ky., June 1, 1895. 



INTRODUCTION. 



I AND OF THE SUNRISE! Land of the lotus and 
V. cherry blossoms; of towering mountains and reedy- 
plains; of peaceful rivulets and foaming torrents; 
land of curtain-concealed Mikados and warlike 
shoguns; who has words to describe its unique char- 
acteristics, or the wisdom to glean from the wealth 
of its mythology the golden threads of its history! 

The archipelago of Japan lies off the eastern coa,st 
of Asia, and stretches from the extreme north to the 
Philippine Islands on the south. The Chinese knew 
of no land beyond it, and spoke of it as the "Land of 
the Sun's Origin." The first knowledge we have of 
the' country is from Marco Polo, a famous Venetian 
traveler who sojourned for several years at the court 
of Kublai Khan in China during the thirteenth cen- 
tury. He called it ''Ghipangu (Sun's Origin)," and 
described it as follows: 

"It is an island towards the east in the high seas 
1500 miles from the continent; and a very great island 
it is. The people are white, civilized and well 
favored. They are idolaters and are dependent on 
' nobody. And I tell you the quantity of gold they 
have is endless, for they find it in their own islands." 

From the Chinese word, "Chipangu," the Japanese 
formed the word, Nippon, (Sun's Origin), and pre- 
fixed the word Dai (Great), making Dai Nippon, by 
which name they designate their wonderful land. 



X INTRODUCTION. 

Christopher Columbus read what Marco Polo said 
of these remarkable islands, and set out to find them^ 
going westward, since the maps of that day showed 
no lands lying between them and Europe. The re- 
sult was the discovery of America. 

The climate and productions are greatly varied, 
both on account of its physical features and its posi- 
tion. If placed in the same relation 1o America as it 
sustains to Asia, Japan would reach from Massachu- 
setts to northern Florida. It has the appearance of 
a sunken mountain chain whose innumerable peaks 
come through the surface of the water and form its 
groups of islands. The shores are bold and precipi- 
tous like mountain walls, and gashed with narrow 
green dells, picturesque and beautiful. 

The main island has no name, but is usually called 
Hondo (Main Island). North of it lies Yezo, or Hok- 
kaido, and to its south are Kiushiu and Shikoku. The 
aggregate area is about equal to that of California, 
and the population is 40,072,000. The principal cities 
are Tokio, Kioto, and Osa^a. It is at the latter place 
that our^tory begins. 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 



CHAPTER I. 

LOVE'S FIRST VIEW. 

IT WAS a soft dreamy night in Osaka, the great com- 
mercial metropolis, called by some the "Chicago" 
of Japan. The stir of business had ceased in the 
great gloomy factories, the shops were open, and the 
streets and water-ways were gayly lighted with thou- 
sands of many-colored paper lanterns. The ugly 
merchant junks that had plowed the canals all day 
were now motionless, tied to their moorings, and the 
way was left clear for the hundreds of pleasure-boats 
that began to throng the water. So many of the 
broad streets have stone-walled canals through the 
center, the "highways" for so much traffic, that Osaka 
has been likened to Venice; but a glance at the quaint 
architecture on each side destroys the comparison. 
Hundreds of high arched bridges span the canals at 
intervals. They were evidently constructed with a 
view to the convenience of boats passing under, and 
not for vehicles passing over, for at this time the-y 
had no vehicles. 

On a bridge overlooking a popular resort stood two 
young men of the samurai class looking down upon the 
fairy scene below. Many house-boats were occupied 



12 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

by whole families, who took advantage of this oppor- 
tunity to refresh themselves after the heat of the day, 
so intense in the low shimmering plain on which 
Osaka is situated. Very conspicuous were the gaudily 
decked thatched boats of the geisha (singing girls), 
who sang like sirens in the twilight and drew crowds 
of infatuated beholders to flock like moths around 
their alluring lanterns and sit under the spell of their 
samisens (guitars). One of the young men, Matsuda 
Kimura,* whose father was one of the most trusted 
retainers of the lordly daimyo, who dwelt in the 
frowning castle beyond the moat, suddenly dropped 
the conversation in which he had been engaged with 
the young man at his side, and began gazing with un- 
feigned admiration upon one of the gay floats. His 
cousin, Okubo Sakamune, watched him with interest. 
The boat was an unusually large one, and seemed to 
be occupied by a wealthy family. The father and 
mother were watching the antics of a chubby baby 
boy as he rolled upon the mat clutching at an orange 
that persisted in rolling just beyond his reach. But 
that was*not Avhat interested Matsuda; for at the other 
end w^as a group of young girls just budding into 
womanhood, engaged in some kind of a frolicsome 
play. They were jirottily dressed, r.s Japanese girls 
usually are, their embroidered silken kimonos (outer 
garments), held in place by broad belts tied in enor- 
mous bows behind, looking especially charming under 
the light of the festoons of many-colored lanterns 

*The Japanese, when at home, place their family nime before the 
"given" name, as Kimura Matsuda, but for cjnvenience I write it as they 
do in this country. 



LOVE'S FIRST VIEW. 



13 



above and around them. Three of the girls, who 
seemed to be visitors, were inclined to be lively, and 
when the old folks were not looking were rash enough 
to shake their long sleeves by way of flirtation with 
some boys in a neighboring boat — a great impropri- 
ety in Japan. The prettiest of all, and by far the 




Eivrr Scene. 



most charming, evidently a daughter of the elderly 
couple, refrained from such mischief, though she was 
not lacking in merriment, for that is a characteristic 
of young life in Japan. She it was who had uncon- 
sciously attracted the attention of the young samurai 
on the bridge. 



14 11^ THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

"I beg pardon, honored cousin," finally broke in 
Okubo, "but what is it that attracts you?" 

Matsuda started and blushed, as he caught himself 
in what he feared his cousin, would think a very fool- 
ish act. His first impulse was tg evade the truth and 
say that he was admiring the reflection of the stars in 
the water, but he was a true knight, and frankly 
replied, 

"I crave your pardon for my rudeness, but I con- 
fess I was so attracted by that face yonder in the boat 
that I forgot myself. It is very foolish in me, I know, 
but I was bewitched before I knew it. " 
^ "I do not consider you foolish by any means," an- 
swered Okubo, who was already married. ' 'All Japan- 
ese love beauty, whether in nature or art. You were 
not flirting, and there is nothing wrong in admiring 
the beauty of that young lady, who is indeed unusu- 
ally charming. I have often wondered whether you 
were susceptible to such impressions, and if you ever 
thought about your marriage which is shortly to take 
place.. • Your parents are getting old now, and must 
soon turn their estate over to you. As it was I who 
acted as go-between several years ago in securing 
your betrothal to Miss Toki Morita, the daughter of 
your father's friend, it is but natural that I should be 
interested in what concerns the happiness of both of 
you. " 

Here they were interrupted by the passing of a 
procession, and were forced to move on with the 
crowd, going in the direction of Matsuda's home. 



LOVE'S FIBST VIEW. 15 

"Will you graciously condescend to enter?" he 
asked, as they stood before the door. 

'■'You do me great honor," answered Okubo, bowing 
low. ' 'I shall be glad to see the honorable father. " 

' 'I think you will find him at the fountain in the 
garden," said Matsuda. "I will remove my swords 
and join you in a few minutes." 

"Thanks," replied Okubo. "I know his retreat, 
and shall easily find him." 

With these words he passed through the sliding 
walls of the little parlor and into the exquisite little 
garden, a necessary and luxurious part of every 
Japanese home. Numerous paper lanterns suspended 
from the most favorable positions increased the en- 
chantment of the natural loveliness, though the ris- 
ing moon was now peering over the eastern wall. It 
was a lovely spot of ground, and Mr. Sakamune did 
not wonder that the old gentleman delighted to spend 
his quiet evenings there. Though but a tiny spot, as 
all Japanese gardens are, it had been so carefully 
cultivated for many generations that it was a perfect 
landscape in miniature. In it were trees a hundred 
years old that you could almost put in your pocket, 
some of them trained into the shapes of all kinds of 
animals. A stream of clear water leaping over the 
wall dashed down two or three miniature precipices, 
formed a miniature lake, then branched out in trick- 
ling rills among the flower-beds, passed under minia- 
ture bridges, around miniature islets, and then disap- 
peared at the other side. Mr. Sakamune passed along 
the well-kept gravel walk and by the little lake 



16 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

sparkling with gold-fish gentle enough to eat from 
the hand. Lotuses floated oq its bosom, and irises 
and azelias .fringed its borders. From here a .path 
with a border of ever glorious national chrysanthe- 
mums led to the cascade beyond. Here, sitting under 
the overhanging boughs of a weeping willow that 
grew out of the wall and drooped its branches in the 
dancing water, swaying up and down in^ time to the 
musical ripple of the stream, was Mr. Kimura. He 
was a pleasant old gentleman of the polite ceremonial 
type now fast dying out under the encroachments of 
Western worldliness. He arose at once, and with 
genuine pleasure visible on his refined features, ex- 
claimed, 

"Ah, it is my honored nephew, Okubo Sakamune! 
Graciously be seated on my humble mat, I pray 
you?" 

"You are too kind to one so unworthy," replied 
Okubo. "Your seat is a luxury. " 

With that they both sat down by the water side, and 
Sakamune began at once to tell the object of his 
visit. 

"I am happy to announce," he said, "that I have 
been very successful in the task you assigned me. 
Unsuspected by himself I led Matsuda to a position 
where I could study the effect of female attractions 
upon him. I am sure he will be happy when married, 
and I would lose no time in making the arrangements. 
I even mentioned the matter to him, but the crowd 
prevented his replying. I have no doubt that he is 
thinking seriously about the matter. " 



LOVE'S FIRST VIEW. 17 

"You have done well," replied the old gentleman, 
"and 1 thank you for the satisfaction you have 
brought me. I must soon retire from active life, and 
it is necessary that my son should be installed in my 
position as early as possible. While it is not cus- 
tomary nor necessary to consult the wishes of the 
young people in such matters, I am anxious that my 
home shall remain one of peace, and, in order that 
such may be the case, it will be well for them to see 
each other once, and see if their own judgments ratify 
the action of their parents. It was for the purpose of 
ascertaining whether Matsuda had any thoughts aside 
from military matters that I requested you to lead 
him unconsciously among the attractions of society. 
It now remains for Matsuda and Toki to meet each 
other. I' leave the matter with you. Hark! he is 
coming. You may meet him and consult with him 
about the miyai (look-at-each-other meeting). What- 
ever he says you may do. Safijonara (Good-bye)." 

Mr. Sakamune then departed, and meeting Matsuda 
by the little lake, joined arms with him, and as they 
proceeded back toward the house, he said: 

"Honorable cousin, your father wishes your mar- 
riage with Miss Morita to be consummated as soon as 
possible, and he also graciously allows you and the 
young lady to meet according to the prescribed rules, 
of etiquette, so that you may mutually judge of each, 
other. I am therefore authorized to propose to you 
.three kinds of meeting, either one of which you may 
select. We will meet her on the bridge as she walks 
with the Okkasan (mother), where you may observe 



18 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

her as she approaches from the other side; or we will 
call upon her at her home, where you may receive a 
cup of tea from her hand; or, finally, we will occupy 
a box near her at the theater, where you can study 
her and enjoy the delectation of feasting your eyes 
upon her for a whole evening.* What is your excel- 
lent choice? It shall be done. " 

Most young men would have preferred the latter, 
but Matsuda was wise beyond his years. His ideal of 
a wife was not a woman whose chief accomplishment 
lay in posmg on a bridge or simpering in a theater. 
A corrupt geisJm could do both to perfection. He 
wanted a home-maker, and so he replied, to the sur- 
prise of Okubo: 

"By your pleasure, I prefer to see the young lady 
at home. I can best judge of her there." 

"Very well," answered Okubo. "It shall be as 
you wish." 

"There again comes up the vision from the bridge,^" 
said Matsuda. ' 'It is wrong for one so soon to be 
married to admu'e so much the beauty of a stranger. 
I almest wish I had not seen her. If I only knew 
that my betrothed looked anything like her I should 
he satisfied." 

"Then let me put your fears to rest," answered 
Okubo, "for MissMorita is, in my judgment, fully as 
pretty as the girl you saw to-night. But it is now near 
the hour of the ox (midnight), so I must be going. I 
will call for you to-morrow. Sayonara.''^ 

■*The Japanese take lunch to the theater and stay there all day. 



LOVE'S FIB ST VIEW. 19 

It is difficult for an American or European young 
man to conceive the anxieties that beset Matsuda at 
this point. Although he had been prepared to assume 
his father's swords and his position as retainer to the 
daimyo (prince), he was now being thrust into a posi- 
tion in regard to which he had given little thought. 
Since his admiration for female loveliness had first 
been awakened that night at the bridge, he naturally 
wondered if his betrothed would be pretty. That is, 
in Japanese conception, if she would be graceful and 
slender, with small hands and feet, pearly teeth, and 
rosebud mouth. But he checked himself. His father 
had decided, and that must suffice. Although, ac- 
cording to Japanese custom, he had never met his 
betrothed, he had often heard his father speak of 
Mr. Morita as a wealthy merchant who had been able 
to purchase the rank of a samurai. He must be an 
unusually excellent character if such a man as Mr. 
Kimura could so far overcome caste prejudice as to 
seek the hand of his daughter for Matsuda. No 
doubt she was an estimable young lady. So Matsuda 
resolved to try to be satisfied. A wise conclusion, 
for he was unable to help himself if he had not been 
satisfied. To marry against the will of the parents 
was an unheard-of thing. 



20 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 



CHAPTER II. 
THE MIYAI — THEY MEET. 

ZTHE NEXT MORNING there was no small stir in 
Mr. Morita's house. Toki had been informed 
that she was to meet her betrothed that afternoon, so 
special preparations had to be made. Her hair had 
been dressed only two days before, but this morning 




the modest little hair-dresser was surprised to receive 
a summons to come and do her work a day earlier 
than she was due, for fashion in Japan decrees that 
the hair shall be arranged in such ornate style as no 
woman can do for herself, and so the professional 



THE MIYAI—THEY MEET. 21 

hair-dresser is called in two or three times a week. 
Of course, to sleep on a pillow would necessitate this 
being done every day, which would be both incon- 
venient and expensive. For that reason pillows are 
not used, but blocks of wood, with cotton pads on 
top, supply their places and support the back of the 
head. 

Little Miss Snow, who had dressed Toki's hair for 
several years, and who is now an intimate friend, 
came with all speed and began her work with a skill 
born of long practice. But the motions of her deft 
fingers did not prevent her feminine tongue from 
wagging incessantly. She was cunning, and playful, 
but sympathetic. 

"I beg many pardons, gracious lady ," she began, 
' 'but it is something strange for me to be here to-day 
when I should have come to-morrow. Now some- 
thing is going to happen. I knew that some one 
would be seeking the hand of the rich merchant's 
daughter. I doubt not many have already been re- 
fused. Pray who is the fortunate one?" 

"Thanks for your compliments. Miss Snow," 
replied Toki, "but have you not heard that I was 
long since betrothed to Matsuda Kimura? He comes 
to-day, and I must meet him. " 

' 'What, the gallant young samurai who lives near 
the castle, whose father is a relative of the great 
shogun!" 

"He is the very same," replied Toki with a little 
blush of pride. ' 'What do you know of him, Miss 
Snow? I have heard much about the patriotism of 



22 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

the family, and their standing socially, but how are 
they at home ? Does not your friend dress Mrs. 
Kimura's hair? Are they kind to each other and to 
the servants? And Mrs. Kimura, will she treat me 
as a human ? Oh, I have heard so niuch about the 
harshness of mothers-in-law! Tell me if you know 
anything of them at home." 

"What a frightened little dove it is!" said Miss 
Snow, twitting her playfully. Then, becoming more 
serious, she answered: 

"Allow me to congratulate you on the fact that you 
are about to enter one of the best families in Osaka. 
The old people are highly cultured and very kind. 
There is only the one son, and I have no doubt that 
you will be treated as kindly as in your own home. 
Besides you have had greater advantages than most 
of the young wives who come to grief, in that you 
have had such an excellent mother to train you and 
fit you for your station, so that your mother-in-law 
will find but little, if anything, to complain of. It is 
true, Matsuda has given little attention to anything 
except martial exercise, but I know him to be chival- 
rous and brave, and that means that he will not 
neglect you. 

"By the way, if Matsuda had been on the canal 
last night wouldn't he have been jealous, though! I 
saw some mischievous young men making signs 
towards your boat, and, though I could not tell who 
it was that answered, I caught the glimpse of a 
pretty sleeve dangling coquettishly over the rail- 
ing." 



THE MIYAl—THEY MEET. 23 

"O, alas!" cried Toki, blushing furiously. "Is it 
possible that you could think of accusing me of such 
a thing! So much for companions. There were 
some thoughtless girls on board who did such, and 
now I must bear the blame!" She was about to burst 
into tears when Miss Snow answered reassuringly: 

"There, there, pretty one! No one accused you, 
I knew who did it, and just wanted to tease you. I 
beg a thousand pardons in that I have unintentionally 
distressed you. There, now; why, you were about to 
spoil your rosebuds (lips). My tongue is always run- 
ning away with me. Any way, you looked unusually 
pretty last night, and I could not have blamed the 
boys if they had so far forgotten themselves as to flirt 
with you, though you did not with them." 

At last the shapely head was properly adorned, and 
after a few more pleasant little courtesies and good 
wishes for the future, Miss Snow bowed herself out 
and left Toki for her maids to dress in a style befit- 
ting the occasion. 

Promptly at the hour appointed Mr. Sakamune and 
his young hopeful dropped their clogs* on Mr. 
Merita's front porch and w^ere ushered in by the 
bright-eyed little servant girl. She led them past 
the kitchen — always in front in a Japanese house — 
back to the charming parlor, which opened out upon a 
lovely little garden in the rear, if possible more lovely 
than the one at Mr. Kimura's. Then she placed a soft 
mat for each to sit on and in a few moments brought 

*The Japanese wear heavy wooden clogs for shoes, and, of course, these 
could not be worn In the house, as they would ruin the delicate mats on 
the floor. For that reason they are always left on the outside. 



24 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

in tea in tiny cups, a cup for each, on a little lacquer 
table not more than four inches high. She then 
bowed herself out and went to announce their arrival 
to Mr. Morita. 

In due time that much dreaded, but kindly polite 
old gentleman appeared, bowing very low, and suck- 
ing in his breath audibly as a sign of respect to his 
guests, Matsuda found it very natural to draw in his 
breath just then, for never in his life had he had an 
experience that he so much dreaded. He would rather 
meet a hundred armed soldiers than one prospective 
polite old father-in-law. But Mr. Morita was very 
gentle, if he was dignified. He said by way of wel- 
come, 

' 'How can you, honorable sirs, condescend to enter 
my humble home?" 

''Nay," they replied, "you do us great honor to 
allow us to sit in your august presence. Pray be 
seated." 

After numerous bows and compliments on both sides 
they finally sat down. It was the custom on such 
occasions to be very formal, and in conversation to 
avoid all reference to the matter in which all were 
most interested. So Mr. Morita began, 

"You young samurai hear much of what is going 
on, what is the latest news from the American 
ships?" 

Mr. Sakamune replied: "A special dispatch from 
Yedo by way of Kioto announces that the shogun has 
made a treaty with Perry, and that trade is to begin 
between the two countries at once. An American 



THE MIYAI—THEY MEET. 25 

Minister is to be located at Yokohama, which is to be 
an open port." 

At this Mr. Morita seemed to be much excited. 
^'And what do you think will be the result of such 
an action?" addressing Matsuda, who had not spoken. 
He ventured to reply timidly, 

' 'I think it will be the greatest blessing that could 
happen to Japan, Our country being opened, we 
shall stand side by side with the other great nations 
of the world; for that they are great is easily seen 
irom the great ships and the models of other wonder- 
ful things that they bring. I think Commodore Perry 
is a benefactor." 

"I totally disagree with you," said Mr. Morita. 
And grasping the hilt of his sword he exclaimed, "I 
would behead qvqyj one of the upstart barbarians. 
What right had they to interfere with us. Being a 
merchant, I am, of course, interested in traffic, but I 
want no' traffic with those uncouth hairy creatures. 
"Why, I hear that they eat swine and frogs, and drink 
a fiery liquor till their faces become red like fire, and 
that they know nothing of our etiquette. They can 
not be a high type of humanity. It is a shame that 
the god-given Land of the Rising Sun is to be pol- 
luted by their unhallowed feet. " 

Needless to say this speech was not very encour- 
aging to Matsuda, and he did not venture to reply. 
But Mr. Morita's politeness asserted itself and he im- 
mediately apologized, 

' 'I beg your lofty pardon for becoming so excited, 
but I really do abhor these foreigners. As a man, 



26 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 

hov/ever, you have an equal right to your opinion ^ 
and I should not have spoken so abruptly." So much 
like a born samurai did he appear that it was hard to 
realize that he had always followed the peaceable 
pursuit of a merchant. 

At this point the host observed that the cups were 
empty, and he clapped his hands together sharply as. 
a signal to bring some more tea. Now did Matsuda's 
heart beat wildly, for he knew that the arrangement 
was for his betrothed to bring the second cups. It 
was with difficulty that he appeared to join in the 
stilted conversation which the other two gentlemen 
kept up for the next few minutes. 

At last the gilded screens were pulled aside and 
Toki entered. Matsuda could scarcely restrain an 
exclamation of surprised delight, for there, in even 
greater loveliness, stood the girl he had fallen in love 
with the night before. One glance sufficed to im- 
press his mind with her face, and another her dress. 
Her long flowing garments, held in place by the richly 
embroidered oM (girdle) were becomingly beautiful. 
She wore no jewelry, save an ornament in her hair. 
Her face was fair to look upon, oval in shape, with 
carmine tinted lips, damask cheeks, and large gentle 
eyes with long drooping lashes. 

She advanced in a slow and dignified manner, and 
with downcast face as etiquette demanded. But in 
spite of her outward calmness her whole being thrilled 
as she knelt and placed the cup before her betrothed 
and lifted her eyes to his face. One look passed be- 
tween them, a low salute, and she was gone, having 
been less than one minute in the room. 



THE MIYAI—THEY MEET. 



27 



Whatever he may have dreaded before, Matsuda 
could have no further apprehension now. So he sin- 
cerely answered, "I will," when Mr. Morita suddenly 
dropped the discussion of foreign invasion and asked 
him if he would take her. 




They now joined in a cup of tea and then walked 
across to the Government office, where Mr. Morita 
had Toki's name transferred from his own family reg- 
ister to that of Mr. Kimura. Legally speaking, she 
and Matsuda were now married. There only re- 
mained the formal home-bringing. 



28 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



CHAPTER III. 

THE HOME-BRINGING. 

50ME little difficulty was encountered in fixing upon 
an early date for the marriage ceremony, the 
Japanese having so many unlucky days upon which 
it would be disastrous to marry. Finally a day was 
set, and both families began their preparations. Ac- 
cording to the usual custom, the ceremony was to 
take place at night at the home of the groom's father. 
During the preparation Toki received many hand- 
some presents, which she displayed at home for a 
few days, then sent on to be arranged in the room 
which she was to occupy as a bride. 

Mrs. Morita had faithfully instructed her daughter 
from childhood as to her duties in the home, but now 
she saw fit to add to the preparation of her wardrobe 
some hints as to how to perform her duties as a wife. 
So one day as they were sewing on the delicate fab- 
rics the mother said: 

' 'You remember, my daughter, how I have tried to 
instruct you in womanly ways, and I am happy to say 
that you have conducted yourself fully in accordance 
with my teachings so far — but you are now about to 
experience a great change in your life. You will be 
no longer subject to a loving father and tender 
mother, who, for the affection they bear you, can 
overlook little faults; but you are going to live with 



THE HOME-BBINGING. 29 

comparative strangers, and serve a man whom you 
have never seen but once. While I know the family 
to be kind and generous, still your happiness and my 
honor will depend largely upon your conduct as a 
wife. 

"Much is said about the cruelties of mothers-in- 
law, and I know that they do often abuse helpless 
young wives; yet many girls enter upon married life 
with scarcely any conception of their duties as wives 
and daughters, but care only for frivolities, so that it 
is no wonder that nervous old women lose patience 
with them. By following my directions you will have 
no trouble, I am sure, with either your husband or 
mother-in-law. Have you in reach the book I gave 
you on your last birth-day, OnnaDaigaku {The Greater 
Learning for Women) ?^' 

"Yes, honored mother. Shall I get it?" 

"Bring it to me, please." 

Toki opened an elegant little lacquer toilet stand 
and took from it a neatly covered book which she 
handed to her mother, who said: 

' 'Now in this book, which contains the wisdom of 
the great moralist, Kaibara, you will find laid down 
everything pertaining to your duties as wife and 
mother. Have you read it entirely through?" 

"Yes, indeed; more than once." 

' 'That is good Still there are some specific rules 
that I wish you to memorize, and I shall write them 
down here in the back." 

After she had finished writing she said: 

"You see there are thirteen of these, and I will 



30 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

read them to you, so that they may become my last 
words of instruction. " 

" '1. After marriage you are legally my daughter no 
longer. Yield to your father-in-law and mother-in-law 
the same perfect obedience that you have yielded to your 
father and mother. 

" '2. Your husband is your only lord and master. , Be 
humble and polite. Perfect obedience to the husband is 
a noble trait in a woman. 

" '3. Be kind always to your mother-in-law. 

" '4. Do not be jealous; that is not the way to win your 
husband's affections. 

" '5. Even when there is injustice on your husband's 
part, do not be angry, but be patient, and when he is 
quiet reason with him. 

" '6. Talk but little. Do not tell another's mischief. 
Never tell a lie. 

" '7. Get up early, stay up late at night, and do not 
take a nap in the day. Do not drink much wine, and do 
not go into a crowded place till you are fifty years old. 

" '8. Do not ask a fortune-teller what your future des- 
tiny will be. 

" '9. Though you are married young, do not associate 
with young men, even if they be relatives. 

" '11. Do not wear gay dresses. Be clean always. 

'i> '12. Do not be proud of your father's prosperity or 
position, and do not boast of them before your husband's 
family. 

" '13. Always be careful how you treat the man- 
servant and the maid-servant.* ' " 

' 'I thank you greatly, " said Toki when her mother 
had finished, ' 'I am sure these will be of great serv- 
ice to me, and I shall not forget them. Now please 
to advise me about some less important things, but 

*For a fuller quotation, see "The Japanese Bride," by N. Tamura. 



THE HOME-BBINQING. 31 

things I do not fully understand. How about black- 
ing my teeth and extracting my eye-brows after I am 
married?" 

' 'Well, as you know, custom requires such of every 
married woman to distinguish her from the unmar- 
ried. So after you get into your new home that will 
be one of your first duties. I will give you a pair of 
tweezers, and your maid can assist you about your 
eye-brows. True, it will be somewhat painful, but 
by pulling them out by degrees you can endure it. " 

"Ugh! What a horrid practice, anyhow," said 
Toki with a little shudder. "Why is it required? It 
makes beautiful girls hideous old women." 

'I am sure that I can not tell why it is done," an- 
swered her mother. "There are contradictory ac- 
Kcounts as to its origin. Some say that women 
formerly did it to render themselves more attractive 
in the eyes of their husbands. Others say that the 
husbands required it in order to render them so unat- 
tractive to other men that they would not have other 
admirers than their own husbands, and so there 
would be no cause for jealousy. At any rate, a 
woman so distinguished is as safe from the ap- 
proaches of other men than her own husband as if 
she were surrounded by a Chinese wall." 

"I should think so, " said Toki. "How could they 
be admired?" 

' 'Do not forget, my daughter, that your own mother 
has passed through that 'hideous' change. It is our 
lot and we must submit to it. There should be some 
distinction between married women and those who 



32 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

are not. That is the main reason also why you must 
leave off your gay dresses and your red under- 
garment, for such are the distinctive apparel of vir- 
gins alone. You are not undergoing anything worse 
than I have already endured, and I am sure I did it 
gladly for my husband's sake." 

"Pray excuse me, honorable mother. I never 
thought of you when I spoke so rashly. It never oc- 
curred to me that you were not good looking, and it 
seems perfectly natural to see you as you are, for I 
never saw you before the change. If you look so 
well now you must have been beautiful then. Any- 
way, I shall not complain again." Here Mrs. Morita- 
was called away and the conversation dropped. 

At last the eventful day arrived. Toki arose early 
and pushed away the shoji (blinds) breathlessly to see 
whether the weather was propitious, for to get mar- 
ried on a rainy day would be a very unlucky thing — 
to the new dresses at least. But the morning was- 
clear and bright, so she set about her preparations 
with a light heart. After her bath, which every 
Japanese takes as regularly as the daily meals, she 
submitted herself again to Miss Snow, who was to 
dress her hair for the last time. 

"Ah," said the active little hair-dresser, "so I am 
to lose a good customer, for you are no more to have 
your hair arranged in the style of maidenhood. To- 
morrow you will wear it 'high, ' like a matron. Well, 
it is a great honor to be married, especially to such a 
man as Matsuda, and I congratulate you. Still I 
regret to see you pass out of my bounds. May Lord 



THE HOME-BRINGING. 33 

Buddha give you peace and a long life." Thus she 
rattled on till her task was accomplished and she 
had to leave in order to give the bride time to dress 
and make all her preparations before Mr. Sakamune 
should call to conduct her to her husband's home. 

It was late in the afternoon when Toki came forth 
ready to go, for marriages are always at night. She 
looked very pretty in her wedding dress of pure 
white silk folded over the breast, its long flowing 
sleeves almost touching the floor. Her oU, the most 
important and most extensive part of her outfit, was 
a girdle of gold- embroidered velvet wrapped twice 
about the waist and tied in an enormous bow behind. 
Her tiny feet were encased in white silk moccasins, 
with separate divisions for the great toe, or "foot- • 
thumb."* 

A little after nightfall Mr. Sakamune and a few 
friends appeared, followed by a norimono (palanquin) 
borne on the shoulders of four men. Then came the 
most trying time for Toki. She was placed inside 
the norimono and borne away like a corpse, while 
funeral fires were kindled before the doors, thus sig- 
nifying that henceforth she was dead to the old home. 
Mr. Sakamune, clad in stiff ceremonial robes, led the 
procession, followed by the parents of the bride, the, 
special friends, and servants bearing rich presents, 
for the family and servants of the groom. As both, 
parties were in high social standing it was observed: 
that many lanterns were hung along the street just. 

*Japanese clogs are held in place by straps passing between the toesi 
and around the ankle. Hence the division. 



34 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

without the doors of friends who thus offered their 
congratulations. 

Mr. Kimura's house and garden were brilliantly 
lighted, and the best room was gorgeously decorated 
for the occasion. New mats were laid on the floors, 
clean white paper was pasted on the frames of the 
sliding doors, and blossoms of pine or bamboo in rare 
old vases adorned the tokonoma, the raised floor of 
one end where the ceremony was to take place. In 
the middle of the floor stood a little table on which 
was a pine tree, emblem of unfading youth, and sit- 
ting at each end of which were two large dolls dressed 
as an old man and an old woman, signifying long life 
to the young couple. 

When the norimono arrived at the gate Mr. Saka- 
mune assisted the bride to alight upon the clean 
white mat that had been spread from the door, and 
turned her over to the charge of her two maids, who 
had gone on before to arrange her room and who 
were to assist her in perfecting her toilet. She was 
ushered to her room, and in a little while was made 
ready. ' A little touch here, smoothing out a wrinkle 
there, a little more carmine on the lips; then she 
drew on the thick silken vail and proceeded to the 
room where the company was in waiting. 

A large company of relatives and friends was pres- 
ent, all silent and solemn as the grave. Matsuda was 
already seated on the tokonoma. With beating heart, 
but steady, dignified step, Toki approached and took 
her seat beside, but a little below him. Mr. Saka- 
XQime, who as go-between was to officiate in the cere- 



THE HOME-BRINGING. 35 

mony, took his seat in front of the couple. Then two 
voices in an adjoining room began to chant a low 
sweet melody which continued till the ceremony was 
over. A little table, on which was a pagoda-shaped 
pile of three tiny cups, was handed to the bride. 
Then two little girls came forward with the cere- 
monial sake (rice wine) in two bottles decorated with 
male and female paper butterflies. Each poured the 
sake from her bottle at the same time into a pretty 
little copper kettle, thus symbolizing the union of the 
two lives. Then one took the kettle and filled the top 
cup on the table in the bride's hand. She took three 
sips and passed to Matsuda, who drained the cup and 
placed it under the bottom of the stack. The next 
cup was filled and disposed of in the same manner, 
and so with the third, making for each nine sips in 
all. Then Toki lifted her vail and looked blushingly 
into the face of her husband, as Mr. Sakamune now 
11 renounced Matsuda to be.* 

The bride and groom now retired to their respect- 
ive dressing-rooms to change their stiff ceremonial 
robes for something more comfortable, and more in 
keeping with the festivities soon to begin. The 
guests in the meanwhile dispersed to the garden and 
wandered around admiring its lakes, fountains and 
flowers. 

At last husband and wife reappeared, and all,were 
invited into thes; dining-room. ; Wha|:;a.:S(?ena,;awaiteji 
them! Artists and cooks had conspired to reproduce 

. ,, _. ~ ,. V "-"■ ,; ^ '^^ ~^' ~~ ^ -■-■■--•.- - ~ ~ ■ 

*Many a man never saw his bride till she herself raised the vail after 
the "nine sips." 



. THE HOME-BRINGING. 37 

the loveliest parts of Dai Nippon's glorious landscape 
in a form that could be enjoyed by other senses as 
well as that of sight. There were fruits piled into 
snow- crested Fuji, hills and promontories, inlaid with 
streams of jelly and lakes of delicious liquids of vari- 
ous kinds. The choicest vegetables were modeled 
into trees and flowers.* It seemed a pity to destroy 
such a picture, but after a spirited attack of chop- 
sticks wielded by deft fingers the smiling landscape 
became a desolate waste as if smitten by typhoon or 
earthquake. 

The feast lasted nearly three hours, during which 
time the bride, according to custom, changed her 
dress three or four times. What a chance to show 
all her pretty clothes! All the friends exchanged 
cups of sake with the couple, and, to see them drink- 
ing with each of their friends, you would think that 
they were sure to become intoxicated, especially after 
the "nine sips." But the drinking was mostly a mat- 
ter of form, and they really drank very little. You 
should remember that the cups were only a little 
larger than thimbles, even if they had been filled 
each time. 

Just before midnight the guests began to disperse, 
but so polite were they that no one spoke of "going 
home," which would have been a sad reminder to the 
bride who had just died to home. But all left with 
pleasant words of parting or a thrust of humor. No 
one kissed the bride. No, indeed! they had never 

* The Buddhist religion forbids the eating of ilesh. though a distinction 
is made in regard to fish. Sometimes a. deer is eaten, conscience biding 
stifled by calling it a "mountain whale." 



38 IW THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

heard of such a practice, and there was not even a 
word for kiss in their language. 

Mr. Sakamune had done his part well in bringing 
the matters to a final issue, and he had been engaged 
at it for several years. Matsuda and his father ap- 
preciated his services and rewarded him with a hand- 
some present. 

****** 

Toki dressed early next morning, and tripping to 
the room of her new parents before they arose, 
bowed her pretty head to the matted floor and in- 
quired if they had slept well, and how they felt. She 
then proceeded to the kitchen according to the sug- 
gestion of her mother and made herself acquainted 
with the servants, and prepared with her own hands 
the tea for breakfast. She was determined that no 
fault should be found with her in the matter of indus- 
try. She soon won the esteem and affections of the 
servants so that she never afterwards had any trouble 
with them. 

The consideration with which children are taught 
to treat servants accounts, no doubt, to a large extent, 
for the fact that there is no servant problem inJapan 
Servants rather take a delight in doing the best for 
their employers, even surprising them frequently 
with what they accomplish out of so little material. 

After a few days Toki was allowed to visit her 
former home and remain with her mother for a week. 
This is the time when many young brides refuse to 
go back to their husbands, and the go-between has 
to secure a divorce. But Toki seemed perfectly 



THE HOME-BRINGING. 39 

happy, and no such thoughts entered her mind. 
After a few days Matsuda joined her, bringing pres- 
ents for her family as she had carried to his, Mr. 
Morita provided a rich feast and invited his friends 
to come and meet his son-in-law. The two then re- 
turned home, and after Toki. had gone with Mrs. 
Kimura to call on all who had placed lanterns in front 
of their doors on the wedding night, they settled 
down to quiet home life. Toki assisted her mother- 
in-law about the house-keeping, knitting, sewing and 
embroidery; while Matsuda busied himself in prac- 
ticing the arts of a samurai, such as horsemanship 
and sword exercise. 



40 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



CHAPTER IV. 

MATSUDA LEARNS THE LORE OP THE SAMURAI. 

AFTER MATSUDA returned with Toki from her 
1^ father's house, Mr. Kimura decided that it was 
now time to install him in the position of samurai, 
and as proprietor of the home; for in Japan young 
people never go into houses to themselves, but live 
with the parents of the groom, and perpetuate the 
family line from the old home. As they were talking 
on the subject in the garden next morning, Matsuda 
said: 

' 'I shall be only too happy, most honored father, to 
do what I can to extend the glory of our house, and I 
am profoundly sorry that you feel the necessity of 
giving up active life before I am old enough, or have 
had experience enough to understand my duties bet- 
ter. I should like to have some information from 
yoursell as to the past, so that I may know how to 
act in the future. Of course, I know the nursery 
tales, but I want to learn the real history of what 
pertains to the samurai. Our mission is both politi- 
cal and religious, and as we have two religions and 
two rulers, I am somewhat at a loss. In the first 
place, please to explain Shinto as it relates to the 
government of the country." 

' 'I gladly comply with your request, my son, as far 
as I am able," replied Mr. Kimura, "especially since 
it is such an important question," 



THE LOBE OF THE SAMURAI. 41 

"Shinto, as you know, is simply devotion to the 
Mikado as a divine being. Our tradition teaches that 
Japan is the direct creation of the gods, and that the 
Mikado is the son of a goddess. 

"Izanagi and Izanami, male and female divinities, 
stood together on the bridge of heaven, having re- 
ceived commission to produce the 'Land-of-Reed- 
Plains,' and as they looked down into the abyss be- 
low, Izanagi dipped his jewelled spear into the ocean 
and stirred the briny deep. When he drew it forth 
b)rine dripped from its glittering point and formed the 
four thousand islands on which we live. They then 
descended and made their abode on the land with the 
intention of creating other worlds. But fair Izanami 
died and went to Hades. Undaunted by the terrors 
that opposed him, Izanagi plunged into the depths to 
bring her out, but he was driven back covered with 
pollution. When he washed his august person many 
deities were formed, the Sun Goddess springing from 
liis left eye. He was so pleased with her shining face 
that he gave her dominion over the day to give light 
to the islands. 

* 'But on a certain day the Sun Goddess became 
offended with her brother and hid herself in a cavern. 
Then were the islands dark. In vain did the other 
deities beseech her to show her face again. They 
finally hit upon a happy thought. A great metal 
mirror was made and set before the cave. They then 
began to shout and seemed to be in great glee. When 
the Sun Goddess inquired the cause of their sudden 
joy, they told her that they had found another god- 



42 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

dess more beautiful than herself, and that they were 
praising her. The Sun Goddess, jealous at the 
thought of a rival, came forth to see if what they 
said was true. When she saw the reflection of her 
own shining face in the mirror she thought it really 
was another goddess, and was so astonished that sh& 
did not notice when the entrance to the cavern was 
closed behind her. Then was the 'Land-of -Reed- 
Plains' light again. That, my son, is the origin of 
the metal mirror, and explains why it is found in alL 
Shinto temples. 

"Now our first Mikado was the eldest son of the- 
Sun Goddess. His heavenly name being too sacred 
to repeat, he is known to us by his posthumous title, 
Jimmu Tenno. By the authority of his divine mother 
he descended from heaven in a gilded boat, and with 
a host of mighty warriors drove out the Ainos, the 
hairy aborigines, and took possession of the land. 
Since then his direct descendants have ruled down to 
the present day. That, in brief, is the origin of the 
Mikado and the Shinto faith." 

"Now I understand," answered Matsuda, "why it 
is that the Mikado is called divine. But another 
difficulty arises; if he is so highly honored, how is it 
that we have another ruler of such power as the 
shogun?" 

"That," replied Mr. Kimura, "grows out of the 
reverence of the Mikado of which I was speaking, 
Since he is worshiped as a god the Mikado can not 
appear in public as a man, which would degrade his 
person, but must remain enshrined in his temple like 



THE LOBE OF THE SAMUBAL 43 

palaces at Kioto, while the actual administration of 
the government is placed in the hands of another less 
sacred person. The secular affairs of the govern- 
ment were originally administered by powerful lords 
whose families were related to the Mikado. About 
six hundred years ago these princes fought among 
themselves for the suj^remacy, so that the country 
was thrown into a bloody civil war. Yoritomo, head 
of the great Minamoto family, by the authority of the 
Mikado, conquered the warring factions and placed 
himself at the head of affairs. For his bravery the 
Mikado rewarded him with the title of 'Sei-i-tai- 
shogun (Barbarian-subjugating General),' the highest 
title that any subject can receive. Yoritomo won his 
success mostly through his brave and faithful brother, 
Yoshitsune, who really led the armies, but his very 
success led Yoritomo to envy him and to drive him 
from the country lest he should use the power he had 
gained to exalt himself. Some say that Yoshitsune 
went to Yezo and lived among the Ainos, teaching 
them useful arts; others that he escaped to China, 
where he became the great ruler, Kublai Khan. But 
you have heard from infancy the stories about 
Yoshitsime. 

"Yoritomo established himself at Kamakura, but 
afterwards removed to Yedo*, where he built the 
great castle that became the center of a vast city. 
Here he was virtually autocrat of civil affairs, though 
nominally receiving orders from the Mikado at Kioto. 
Everybody obeyed the shogun, but feared and rever- 
enced the Mikado. " 

*Now called Tokio. 



44 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

"Thanks, honored father," said Matsuda, "your 
explanation removes my difficulty in that matter, but 
I pray you have patience with my stupidity a little 
further, and tell me one more thing. Why is Japan 
€ut off from the great world of which the Dutch 
traders tell us; and what is the meaning of these ter- 
rible warnings written on signs at every crossing? 
They condemn foreigners, and call them Kirishitans 
(Christians). Who are they, and what has religion 
to do with the banishment of foreigners?" 

"An answer to that," replied Mr. Kamura, "in- 
volves the whole story of our national religions, as 
well as politics. As related, Shinto is the national 
religion, but about twelve hundred years ago Bud- 
dhism was introduced. Shinto has no forms of service 
and no creed, except devotion to the Mikado, hence it 
was not hard for the two religions to become fused. 
Under the shoguns Buddhism has gained great head- 
way and somewhat overshadowed the national relig- 
ion, though not supplanting it. Between two hun- 
dred and three hundred years ago a new religion ap- 
peared which has caused all our trouble. A young 
man convicted of a crime in Japan, fled to India, and 
there met a missionary priest named Francis Xavier, 
leader of a Kirishitan sect called Romanists. The 
young man united with them and led Xavier to 
Japan. 

"The Romanists made their religion very popular 
with its gorgeous ritual, and its concessions to exist- 
ing forms. They did not demand much change on 
the part of the native priests. Temples were called 



THE LORE OF THE SAMUBAI. 45 

churches; Buddhist priests were called Christian 
priests, and performed their functions very much as 
formerly; images of Buddha, by a few touches of a 
chisel, became Yasu (Jesus), and the Goddess of 
Mercy in like manner was transformed into Mary, 
the mother of the barbarian God. Converts multi- 
plied so rapidly that in little more than a generation 
they numbered 600,000, including many of the daimyo 
themselves. Presents were sent to Rome, and al- 
legience was acknowledged to the Pontiff. At one 
time the great city Nagasaki was entirely Christian. 

"But the priests of the rival orders, called Fran- 
ciscans and Jesuits, quarreled among themselves, and 
said so many hard things about each other that the 
people lost confidence in the priesthood. About this 
time Hideyoshi, the shogun, heard of a conversation 
that fanned the smouldering fires of discontent into 
a flame of fury. Some one asked a Portuguese ship 
officer, who was a Romanist, how it was that his 
King had gained possession of such a great part of 
the world. The man unwisely replied, 

' ' 'The King, my master, begins by sending priests, 
who win the people, and when this is done he dis- 
patches his troops to join the native Christians, and 
the conquest is easy and complete. ' 

' 'No wonder Hideyoshi was enraged and alarmed. 
He immediately issued an edict expelling all foreign 
religious teachers from the land. Several priests of 
both orders were even burnt alive in order to enforce 
the command. 

' 'At the death of Hideyoshi the shogunate passed 



46 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

into the hands of the present dynasty, under Toku- 
gawa lyeyasa, Japan's greatest statesman. lyeyasu 
jdecided that the suppression of the wicked foreign 
rehgion was necessary to the safety of the empire, so 
he banished both native and foreign adherents. They 
-were exported by shiploads, and thousands were 
massacred in the most horrible manner. Although 
it was a corrupt and dangerous sect, still it seems 
that their humanity should have preserved them from 
the mutilations that followed; for some were torn 
asunder by oxen; some were tied up in rice-bags, 
thrown into heaps and burned alive; others were 
tortured by spikes driven under their nails; and still 
others were starved in cages with food placed in 
sight, but just without their reach. But enough of 
such things. You will read of them in the books.. In 
spite of these severe measures it was impossible to 
persuade the poor deluded souls to deny their wicked 
creed, though they really knew very little of it. They 
had only been taught a few prayers in some kind of 
a barbarian jargon, something like 'Pater Noster,^ 'Ave 
ilfana,' ©r other such things as none of them under- 
stood. Yet they willingly died for their faith. Then 
the signs to which you refer were placed at the cross- 
ings condemning to certain death any Christian, or 
even the Christian's god, if he ever set foot on the 
shores of everlasting great Japan, 

"This answers your other question, as to why we 
are secluded from the world. lyeyasu thought he 
could best develop the people if they were cut off 
from all foreign interference, ■ and so for more than 



THE LOBE OF THE SAMUBAI. 47 

two centuries no foreigner has been allowed to ap- 
proach our shores, with the exception of the Dutch 
traders, who have been restricted to a single island. 
Nor has any Japanese been allowed to leave. 

"Yoa may not know that lyeyasu was the founder 
. of the great feudal system as we have it now. He 
let out provinces to great lords, or daimyo, simply 
requiring of them military support. The retainers of 
the daimyo who fought the battles of the country 
were the samurai, the next highest in rank. From 
lis have come the scholars and the men of culture. 
Beneath us are the merchants, artisans, farmers and 
•other laboring men. Still, a merchant, by means of 
Ms wealth and character, may become a samurai, and 
thus be on social equality with us. That is why it 
was possible for me to marry you to the daughter of 
a former merchant." 

"Now," said Matsuda, "that brings us to the ques- 
tion raised by my father-in-law the first time I saw 
him, 'What do you think of the shogun's policy in 
treating with the foreigner now at Yokohama, and 
what will be the result?' I, perhaps rashly, answered 
that I thought it a great thing for the country; that 
we had been secluded long enough, and now, if these 
countries are so great as they seem to be, we may 
come into contact with people equally as civilized as 
ourselves, if not more so, and that we may derive 
great benefit from them. But Mr. Morita almost 
frightened me by exclaiming that he would like to 
behead every one of the foreigners, and clutching his 
sword as if he were going to begin at once. Is that 



48 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISK 

a general feeling, and do you think trouble is likely 
to follow?" 

"I fear that my friend's patriotism exceeds his 
judgment," replied Mr. Kimura. "There may be 
some difficulty, and there are many who are fanatic- 
ally opposed to such a movement; yet, without doubt, 
it will be for the advancement of our country. I 
should be glad to see the shogun's a.ction ratified, not 
simply because I am myself of the Tokugawa family, 
but because I love Dai Nippon, and am anxious to do 
all I can for her advancement. It may become your 
duty to fight for this, and so I would encourage you 
to keep yourself in good practice for warfare. It is- 
now your hour for exercise, so we will not talk further 
to-day." 



THE BEVOLVTION. 49 



CHAPTER V. 

THE REVOLUTION. 

^NLY a few days after the scene of the last chapter 
it was found that the muttering storm had 
broken forth. A fleet runner, naked save a breech- 
cloth, rushed into the castle at Osaka bearing a gov- 
ernment dispatch in the split end of a long stick, 
summoning the daimyo and his retainers to hasten to 
Yedo, the shogun's Capital. Matsuda, having taken 
his father's place as samurai, was enlisted, and 
buckling on his two swords he mounted his war- 
charger and rode away. Although Toki little under- 
stood the cause of such a sudden summons she was 
brave and patriotic, so that she gave him up without 
a word. That evening, sitting by the hibachi (fire- 
box), she asked her mother-in-law what the trouble 
was. 

"I see, my dear," said the old lady kindly, "that 
you have been so engaged in your preparations for 
marriage that you have not paid, attention to current 
events. You have done right, for hitherto such 
things have not concerned you; but now, as the wife. 
of a soldier, you should be instructed in all that per- 
tains to his life, so I shall gladly relate the circum- 
stances of the present trouble as best I am able.'' 

"Thanks,' replied Toki, "I shall be greatly inter- 
ested in what you have to say." 
4 



50 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

*'Well, you know, of course, that for more than 
two hundred years the great Tokugawa dynasty has 
ruled in Yedo, and that within that time no foreign 
barbarian has been allowed to place his foot on our 
shores. During all these years the Mikados, wor- 
shiped as gods, have remained enshrined in their an- 
cient gardens, giving themselves to religious exer- 
cise, never speaking to the public except once a year, 
when the shogun bows in the solemn stillness with- 
out and listens to the proclamation of the august will 
spoken in sepulchral tones from behind the sombre 
curtains. The Tokugawas, from whom your husband 
is a descendant, are related to the royal family, and 
hence have had almost unlimited power. But there 
are other mighty princes who think that they have 
an equal right to power, and who are using every 
pretext to seek the overthrow of the shogunate. 
Although that has never yet been attempted, yet 
what they think a sufficient pretext has at last hap- 
pened. About a year ago great ships came to our 
shores from a land far beyend the seas. They were 
commanded by a man named Perry, who brought a 
letter from his ruler, the President of the United 
States of America, asking our 'Emperor' to make a 
treaty with him for the purpose of trade, and that his 
ships might land here on their way to China so that 
they might renew their supplies, since it is a long 
voyage. Having delivered the letter to the shogun, 
whom he thought to be the sole ruler, he departed, 
saying that he would return after a year for an an- 
swer. 



THE REVOLUTION. 51 

"At first all the princes objected, since they thought 
these 'hairy barbarians' unworthy to associate with 
the offspring of the gods. But when Perry returned 
recently, bringing many marvelous things which he 
said were made in America, some began to think that 
after all they might be equal in intelligence to us. 
He has cars that run on iron rails without any horses 
to draw them. Also he put up wires, and two men at 
either end several miles apart communicated with 
each other. Many other such things he has shown, 
so that many have come to the conclusion that it 
would be a wis© thing to sign the treaties and open 
trade with such a wonderful country. During the 
year the shogun has died and been succeeded by a 
mere boy, who has been controlled by the princes 
who are in favor of opening the country. Instigated 
by them, he has signed the treaties without saying 
anything to the Mikado, and even keeping for himself 
the letters and presents sent 1 o the 'Emperor, ' so that 
the Americans think he is really the sole ruler. Of 
course, he will secure the ratification of the Mikado, 
who would not have conferred with the foreigners 
anyhow, and he will doubtless deliver the letter and 
the presents when the time comes for him to go to 
Kioto for instructions. But he signed the treaties 
under the title of 'Tai-kun,'' a Chinese word for 'Great 
Ruler.' This incensed the opposing princes and 
caused them to rebel against the shogun. Every- 
where they are raising the war-cry: 'Expel the bar- 
barians and honor the Mikado!' Hundreds of fanatics 
have deserted their daimyo and become ronin (out- 



52 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

laws), wandering at large over the country and cut- 
ting down with their sharp swords all who oppose 
them. It is not so much zeal for the Mikado nor op- 
position to foreigners, as it is a blood-thirsty desire 
to overthrow the shogun, who really is not responsi- 
ble for what he has been forced to do. That is why 
the daimyo and his forces must hasten to the Capital, 
for the country would be filled with blood if these 
outlaws should accomplish their desires. To-morrow 
you and I will go to the temple and pray great Lord 
Buddha to give success to our troops, and to protect 
my son and your husband." 

"I am very grateful to you, honored mother," said 
Toki when Mrs. Kimura had finished, ' 'and I do hum- 
bly hope that the trouble will soon be over." 

But these fond hopes were not soon to be realized. 
It seemed impossible to stay the great uprising. The 
popular ambition seemed to be to drive back every 
foreigner from the shore. But the foreigner con- 
tinued to come in increasing numbers. Seventeen 
other nations soon secured treaties, ports were 
opened, "Ministers were established, and the great 
ships continued to plow around in the adjacent waters 
to protect those on shore. It was plain that the for- 
eigner was there to stay. Vengeance must be had 
on the shogun. He had secured the ratification of 
the Mikado to his treaties, but only his blood could 
satisfy the thoroughly enraged opposing princes. He 
was forced into battle— an unheard-of thing for a 
shogun and his people — and after three months of 
desperate fighting he fled to the stronghold at Osaka, 
where he died in great distress at his downfall. 



THE BEVOLUTION. 53 

The Tokugawa princes now selected a new shogun, 
Keike, whose sole qualification consisted in his weak- 
ness, and his pliancy in the hands of his masters. 
But they overreached themselves. If he was afraid 
of his friends he was equally, if not more, afraid of 
his enemies, so when the latter advised him to resign 
the shogunate to the Mikado and retire, he did so at 
once. 

Just previous to this the Mikado, Komei, a bitter 
opposer of the foreigners, had died, and had been 
succeeded by his son, Mutsu-hito, the present ruler, 
and the one hundred and twenty-first in his line. The 
new Mikado readily accepted the resignation of the 
shogun, and thus, on the 30th of January, 1868, he 
brought to an end the double administration, himself 
becoming the sole and active ruler. 

But Keike had only "jumped from the frying-pan 
into the fire." He had appeased his enemies, but had 
mortally offended his friends. They immediately in- 
fluenced him to change again and take up arms in the 
effort to reinstate himself in the shogunate. But in 
this rebellion against the "Son of Heaven" he lost 
irretrievably the respect of his vassals. It was plain 
that the ijrestige of the shogun was at an end. Fail- 
ing in battle he fled with his retainers to the strong- 
hold of Osaka, closely pursued by the loyal troops, 
who burned the citadel, as they thought, over his 
head. But he made good his escape through the 
assistance of Mr. Kimura. The old man, now in his 
dotage, deeply chagrined at the downfall of the To- 
kugawa house, and vaguely hoping that the shogun 



54 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

might yet be restored, had gathered a few strong 
men, and himself covered Keike's retreat, fighting 
desperately with the overpowering forces. He was 
captured just before the burning walls fell in, but by 
this time the ex-shogun was in a fishing craft far out 
on the bay. The old samurai was imprisoned as a 
traitor against the Mikado, but Keike, from a safe 
hiding place, sent his apologies to the Capital, begged 
the royal pardon, and promised never again to take 
up arms against the government. His request was 
generously granted, and he retired into private life 
at Kamakura. 

The young Mikado felt the thrill of life in his veins. 
Shaking off the vail of obscurity that had been around 
the throne for more than two thousand years, he 
looked boldly out over his dominions and observed 
the real condition of his people with a sympathetic 
interest that no Mikado had ever exhibited before. 
Disregarding the superstitious traditions as to his 
sanctity, he thought himself none too sacred to look 
after the interest of his subjects. He soon pacified 
the outlWed fanatics who were causing so much 
trouble, and who, after the defeat of the shogun, the 
more readily yielded to the foreign policy of the 
Mikado. 

It now appeared that there were many wise scholars 
who had secretly learned foreign arts and sciences 
from the Dutch, and who had been using their influ- 
ence in arousing a disposition among the people to 
shake off their sleep and to welcome the western 
world in its desires to benefit them. These were now 



THE REVOLUTION. 55 

appointed to learn all they could from whatever 
sources, and to disseminate useful information among 
the masses of the people. 

About a week after the Restoration the young 
Mikado horrified the conservative elements of his em- 
pire by announcing that hereafter he would assume 
personal control of the government, and that he was 
going to give a public reception to the foreign am- 
bassadors, whom he would meet in person. This an- 
nouncement created the wildest excitement. The 
Son of Heaven has never been allowed to show his 
face even to his own people, and shall he show him- 
self to the barbarians ! Desperate efforts were made 
to prevent the meeting, but it took place according to 
arrangement. The people began to see that their 
ruler had both common sense and power, and they 
respected him. He discarded the idea of divinity as 
only a cunning stroke of policy by mediaeval despots 
who desired to gain the abject obedience and fear of 
their subjects. He simply wished to be a man among 
men, and to lead his people to a higher life. 



66 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBI8E. 



CHAPTER VI. 

BEGINNING OF A NEW ERA. 

AFTER fourteen years of bloodshed and confusion 
/ we return to Osaka to find our family much 
changed. Mr. Kimura had been confined in the cas- 
tle, condemned to death. Had his case been laid be- 
fore the Mikado as was that of the ex-shogun, he, 

too, might have been pardon- 
ed, but as it was he was sub- 
ject to the circumstances of 
war. Being a man of high es- 
tate, and of hitherto unblem- 
ished character, he was al- 
lowed the privilege of 7;ara- 
kiri^ in order that he 
might wipe out from 
^ his family name the 
^f stigma of his guilt. 
P So, in the presence of 
Hara-kiri. his intimate friends 

and relatives, who 
sincerely applauded his action, he knelt upon a thick 
mat placed to receive his blood, and cheerfully plunged 




*This was siiicifie by ripping open the bowels wi'li a sword. To a Japan- 
ese tliis was ihe quickest way out of misery. When men are surrounded 
in battle they account it ample revenge upon their enemies if they can 
succeed In taking their own life A criminal, by committing hara kiri 
atones for all his crimes and dies with an untarnished name. The most 
ignominious punishment is to deny a man this sacred privilege. 



BEGINNING OF A NEW ERA. 



m 



the sharp sword into his abdomen, dying within a 
few minutes, and leaving behind him a name as honor- 
able as that of any loyal soldier who had never taken 
up arms against the "Son of Heaven," All his prop- 
erty, as well as his official authority, now became 
Matsuda's. 

By this time Toki's heart had been made happy by 
the arrival of three children, two boys and a girl. 
The eldest . son, as is often the case, was named 
Ichiro (First Man). Then came the bright-eyed little 
girl whom they called Kiku (Chrysanthemum), after 
the national flower. Saburo (Third Man) was the 
youngest, and as round and jolly as the most of little 
Japanese boys are. 

By the time little Chrysanthemum was four years 
old a large doll was tied to her back and she had to 
carry it there all day, whether she was eating, play- 
ing or running errands. She soon learned to balance 
it there, and became accustomed to it so 
that it neither annoyed her by its weight 
nor was in any danger from falling by 
Tier stooping too far. 

"What a strange idea!" you exclaim 

Not at all. Nearly all little girls 
carry dolls, and they do it as near like 
their mothers carry babies as they can, 
b)ut Kiku was being trained for a special 
purpose. When she was six years old 
her last brother, Shiro, was born, and 
when he was only a few weeks old he 
was placed on her back instead of the 




Carrying Baby. 



58 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

doll. Kiku had herself been carried in that way 
by the little maid-servant, and now she must perform 
the same service for the baby brother. Little Shira 
seemed perfectly at home; his smoothly -shaved head, 
with only a ridiculous tuft of hair left on top and at 
the sides, bobbing from side to side, or lying fast 
asleep on Kiku's shoulder, while she ran about seem- 
ingly perfectly unconscious that he was there. 
Almost any day in the streets of a Japanese city you 
may see many little girls carrying on their backs fat 
little chunks of rosy-cheeked humanity almost as 
large as themselves. In many cases where there is 
no elder sister, nor maid- servant, the mother carries 
the child herself, and does all her work with the little 
one on her back instead of crawling on the floor and 
crying after her. 

Matsuda's father now being dead, his mother came 
entirely under his own care and control. She now 
called nothing her own, though both Matsuda and 
Toki showed her the same respect and affection that 
they bad before. She remembered though that it is 
the place of a widow to be under the control of her 
eldest son, so she took her place as one of Matsuda's 
children, and Toki became sole mistress of the house- 
hold. 

We now come to the most remarkable event in the 
political history of Japan — an event such as never 
occurred in the world before — the termination of 
feudalism by the voluntary petition of the feudal 
lords themselves. The feudal system was distinc- 



BEGINNING OF A NEW EBA. ■ 59- 

tively a part of the Shogun's government, having 
been founded by Yoritomo and perfected by lyeyasu. 
Since the shogunate had been abolished it seemed 
fitting to the daimyo tliat they should surrender their 
territories to the Mikado and become his subjects in 
the same way that other citizens were, provided that 
they receive sufficient means in return to pay off their 
standing army, the samurai. Accordingly, on Au- 
gust 7th, 1869, at their own request, the MikadO' 
decreed that the daimyo should surrender their 
estates to the throne, abandon their titles and become 
citizens of honor. 

Japan now encountered a problem that no other 
nation probably has ever confronted. The aristo- 
cratic daimyo, numbering 268 families, had volun- 
tarily resigned all their rights and their property, a 
thing unprecedented in history. Under them were 
the samurai, numbering 400,000 families, "the back- 
bone of the land," whose sole living was by the sword. 
But swords are now to be beaten into plow-shares,, 
and what are they to do? 

For awhile the daimyo were made governors over 
their respective districts under the appointment of 
the Mikado, and only gradually removed as other 
positions opened up for which they were fitted. The 
government itself undertook to settle with the samu- 
rai, who were now left penniless. It borrowed $165,- 
000,000 and paid them off in round sums of money. 
But the samurai had always lived from hand to mouth, 
and did not know how to take care of money, so 
that in a little while many of them were in as bad 



60 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

state as ever. They had been taught to despise 
labor, since they were a grade higher than the labor- 
ing classes. So many of them found it hard to make 
a living. The only thing was to become scholars, 
which many of them did, some attending the great 
American and English universities for that purpose. 
Matsuda, however, was wise enough to save his por- 
tion, and manage to live on it until something should 
open up for him to do. 

With the dispossession of the aristocracy came the 
elevation of the lower classes. There were the 
Jieimin, farmers, merchants, artisans, etc. ; the Mnin, 
the "not-human," and the eta, the outcasts, who 
handled dead carcasses, skins and other such things 
as would defile a Buddhist. Fully 32,000,000 of these 
lower classes had never been recognized as the citi- 
zens of the country. They were now given legal 
standing along with the higher classes, and thus Japan 
approached nearer a "government of the people, for 
the people, and by the people." All classes are now 
on an equal footing as far as legal standing is con- 
cerned. 

The Emperor* having now become the real ruler, 
it seemed best for him to quit his mysterious seclu- 
sion and take up his abode in one of the other great 
cities; some recommended Osaka. He considered the 
matter and decided to occupy the castle of the sho- 
guns at Yedo, which now became Tokio (Eastern Cap- 
ital). He thus centralized about himself all the out- 
ward signs of power which his position demanded. 

*The word Mikado is now aiscarded. 



BEGINNING OF A NEW ERA. 61 

The Emperor realized the advantages to be 
gained from western education, and this led him to 
employ teachers from both America and Europe to 
come and teach for a few years till an educational 
system could be established. The ambitious and high- 
spirited sons of the daimyo and samurai, being now 
without employment, turned their attention to higher 
education, both as a means of culture and as a quali- 
fication for service in the government, which now 
demanded capable officers. So a large number of the 
brightest of the land have attended Oxford, Yale, 
Harvard, and other great institutions. 

Matsuda took special lessons from an English 
teacher at Osaka, so that he could take care of him- 
self in the new order of affairs. He, like his father, 
had supported the Tokugawa house in opening the 
country, and took great interest in the improvements 
that were being made. In the year 1872 the first rail- 
road was opened up between Yokohama and Tokio, 
thereby greatly increasing the commerce between 
the two cities. Through the influence of a friend, 
Matsuda received appointment to a position as rev- 
enue officer at Yokohama. So, having disposed of 
his home at Osaka, he shipped his goods by sea to 
Yokohama, and prepared to go through by land with 
his family, as it was now in the fall, the pleasantest 
part of the year for traveling. The women and 
children had never seen the country, and his mother 
wished to visit some of the temples and shrines on. 
the way. 



62 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



CHAPTER VII. 

IN KIOTO. 

l/'IOTO was a day's journey from Osaka and on the 
V road to Yokohama. The railroad had not yet 
been constructed between the two capitals, so the 
usual mode of travel was by boat. Matsuda hired one 
of the long flat "gondolas" that make frequent trips 
up and down the river, and prepared for the journey, 
which he decided to make by night in order to avoid 
the heat of the sun. The boat had a long, low cabin 
in the center, about four feet high, on which the pas 
sengers could sit as long as they wished, and in which 
they could retire to sleep when the air became too 
damp to sit without. 

Osaka was in her evening glory as the boat passed 
from the quay by the light of the rising moon. Thou- 
sands of people had congregated on the banks of the 
water ways, on the picturesquely curved bridges, and 
on the hundreds of gayly decked little houseboats 
that thronged the water. Some of these were inhab- 
ited by families who could be seen taking their ease 
as they sipped their tea. Others were crowded with 
merry young people who made the air ring with peals 
of laughter or strains of music from the geisha's sam- 
isen. On every boat were several paper lanterns 
shedding their mild crimson glow over the quiet fam- 
ily circle, while the pleasure crafts were brilliant with 



IN KIOTO. 63 

strings of light streaming from the most gayly col- 
ored lamps. The boys on the shore delighted them- 
selves with shooting off fire-works, which circled 
with graceful coruscations over the water, adding to 
the brilliancy of the scene. Here and there were 
boats loaded with fruits and confections making 
their way among the other vessels and offering their 
tempting stores for sale. It was a beautiful sight, 




Shiteiioji Temple and Pagoda, Osaka. 

and one that impressed itself on the 'memory of those 
who were departing, as they glided silently along the 
still water of the canal, between the stone walls on 
either side, and beneath the high arched bridges that 
spanned the water in great numbers. 

On reaching the main stream the boat shot forward 
rapidly as it was propelled by eight half -naked coolies 



64 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

who ran back and forth from bow to stern' with long^ 
poles thrust in the sand of the bottom of the river. 
Almost all night they kept up their regular march 
with marvelous endurance. They kept up a guttural 
noise all the time, enabling them to keep step, since 
there were four on one side and four on the other side 
of the cabin By morning the passengers awoke and 
looked out to find that they had reached the shallow 
sand-bars near Kioto, and that the coolies were out 
on the bank with a long rope with which they were 
pulling the boat as they ran along through the tall 
grass of the river's border. At Fushimi, a suburb of 
Kioto, they landed and proceeded by jimHMshas* 
(native carriages) to the main part of the city, arriv- 
ing by the time the sun was up. 

Since the death of her husband grandmother Ki- 
mura had become " Go-inkio-sama,'' that is, she had re- 
tired to that state of elderly life, the "Beulah" of 
a Japanese woman's pilgrimage. Then women give 
up all interest in active life and spend the remainder 
of their days in devotion at the temples and shrines, 
doing no work at home, but being waited upon by 
all the household. It is the only period of real rest 
and pleasure in the life of many women. The poor 
down- trodden wife or sadly mistreated daughter-in- 
law is enabled to bear up under the burdens of life in 
anticipation of the time when she shall become "Go- 
inkio-sama," and be treated with honor and respect. 
It is, alas, the only taste of heaven that many poor 
souls ever have. 

Pronounced jin-ree-ki-sha. 



IN KIOTO. 



65 



Matsuda kindly volunteered to remain for a few 
days at Kioto, the city of temples, and the center of 
religion and refinement for all the empire. This 
would give his mother time to visit the most noted 
temples before they should settle down at the great 
commercial foreign metropolis at Yokohama, where 
she would no more have such an opportunity. Being 
well acquainted with the city himself he conducted 




Mikado's Palace and Gardens. 



her from place to place with true filial devotion. Of 
course, they went first to the palace and viewed the: 
sacred precincts where the Mikados had lived en- 
tombed for seventeen centuries. 

In keeping with the superstition that he had de- 
scended from the Sun Goddess, the Mikado was re- 
quired to dwell in a house resembling a temple. No 



66, IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

other houses in the empire, except Shinto temples, 
were allowed to have roofs shaped like those on the 
buildings of the Mikado's palace, with their peculiar 
curves resembling the sagging top of an oblong tent. 
Each room is a separate building with its own indi- 
vidual curved roof, and united to the next by its cov- 
ered veranda. There being many rooms, the whole 
resembles a great collection of tent-shaped buildings, 
said to be a relic of nomad life when the tribes used 
to pitch their tents together around a common center, 
or court, in the highlands of Asia, whence they really 
(Came, instead of from heaven. Also, in keeping with 
tlie bare forms of Shinto, no paint or color is allowed 
to be used on the buildings, but the wood is of the 
finest grain and is kept smoothly polished. Some- 
limes the dark ends of the rafters are tipped with 
white,' thus giving a pretty checkered effect to the 
somber eaves. 

Around the palace is a large garden, cool, shaded, 
and secluded from outward view. Around the inner 
enclosure of the palace grounds is a yellow wall, 
marked all around with five white stripes denoting 
imperial possessions. Outside of this wall is a larger 
enclosure containing the palaces of the court nobles. 
Around the whole are a strong wall and a deep moat, 
thus forming a little imperial city cut off to itself 
apart from the other buildings of the capital. 

The Emperor had already departed in his gilded 
closed norimono to Tokio, so that the place was not 
altogether as awe-inspiring as formerly. Heretofore 
the divine rulers had been surrounded with the most 



IN KIOTO. Q1 

mysterious silence. When it was necessary for his 
Highness to utter his proclamations he sat behind a 
thick screen and delivered his mandates in a deep 
muffled tone that thrilled with awe the prostrate 
hearer on the floor without. No wonder his every 
command was obeyed, for all thought that he had the 
authority of a god. That is all there is in Shinto; 
no worship of images or of heavenly beings, no moral 
code, no creed; only devout reverence for, and obedi- 
ence to the Mikado. Shinto had fallen largely into 
disuse during the last few centuries on account of 
the exaltation of Buddhism by the shoguns. But 
since the Restoration of the Mikado Buddhism had 
been disestablished, and Shinto again became the 
national religion. 

Aside from its palaces, there is much in Kioto to 
fill a visitor with rapture. The situation of the city 
is one of the most delightful in the whole of this 
most beautiful country. It stands embowered among 
trees on a broad plain like a great floor, surrounded 
with a wall of evergreen hills and purple tinted 
mountains. On one side, at some distance, is the blue 
lake Biwa. Around and through it flow sparkling 
rivers with branches led through channels cut in the 
streets, giving to the place an aspect of delicious 
coolness and quietude. The straight streets are per- 
fectly parallel, and cross each other at right angles. 
They are very broad and exquisitely clean. The 
small low houses situated in such spacious squares 
would look monotonous, but that is happily avoided 
by the luxuriant gardens and ancient groves, with a 



68 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

limitless variety of temples and pagodas. The hill- 
sides blossom with gardens. 

The greatest scholars and artists collected at Kioto. 
Here were manufactured the finest articles of porce- 
lain and other wares for the two courts. This is also 
the home of silk industries. The court dress consist- 
ed almost entirely of silk, wool not being used. Al- 
most every home has its silkworms, whose product 
supplies the living of thousands of people. In the 
year 1887 there were 16,864 bales, of 133^ lbs. each, 
shipped to the United States alone. 

All these things are- interesting to sight- seers, but 
pious old grandmother Kimura was absorbed in visit- 
ing as many as possible of the thousands of temples 
that thronged the hillsides, peeping out from their 
solemn groves of ancient cryptomeria, or towering 
over their perfectly kept gardens, in some of which 
are wonderful little trees grown into the shapes of 
ships in full sail, or of animals and birds of various 
kinds. One of the first temples that she visited was 
that of "The Thirty Thousand Gods." It was a 
building* 400 feet long, in the midst of which stood an 
image of the Goddess of Mercy, Kwannon, having ten 
faces, and 1,000 hands with which to dispense her 
benefits. On each side of her are 500 other images 
standing in ten rows to a side, making 1,000, each of 
which is five feet high and gilded. Each of these has 
ten smaller images on its head and ten in each hand, 
making 30,000 in all. 

On her way home every evening she always visited 
the great bell that htmg in a temple near their lodg- 



IN KIOTO. 



69 



ing. This bell is one of the most remarkable illus- 
trations of the Golden Days of Buddhism under the 
shoguns. It is nearly fourteen feet in height and 
nine feet in diameter, weighing more than sixty-three 
tons. It is immovable, as all Japanese bells are, and 
is struck by a beam suspended from the roof, pulled 
back and forth by a rope. No words can express the 
thrilling melody of the 
deep tones that roll forth 
from its~ great bronze 
mouth in soft undulations 
that are yet so strong as to 
cause the very earth to vi- 
brate in unison. When it 
sounds the whole commu- 
nity is still, rather feeling, 
than listening to the har- 
monious cadences that rise 
and fall on the evening 
breeze, tingling every 
nerve of its 300,000 lis- 
teners. No wonder an 
ancient religion associ- 
ated with such sounds 
is so hard to overthrow. 

Every evening the family went, with thousands of 
others, to the river flats, where there was always a 
cool breeze at night. This river, like most others in 
Japan, was a broad torrent in the raiDy season, but in 
dry weather it was only a silver streamlet trickling 
over its sparkling shingle bed from side to side, form- 




The Great Bell. 



70 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



ing many islets that seemed to be made for the purpose 
of furnishing sites for the most unimaginable fairy 
scenes. Here were thousands of lights from swing- 
ing paper lanterns, and thousands of merry people 
thronged the shores and islands, clad in their most 
bewitching costumes of silk with embroidered gir- 
dles. Quaint little bridges led to the diminutive 




Bridge in Kioto. 



islands which were covered with stands for fruit or 
confections. On some there were illuminated 
stands for tea, which was served by pretty girls, 
whose very looks and manners rendered sugar un- 
necessary and unthought of. At least you would sup- 
pose so, for sugar is never used. Platforms extended 



m KIOTO. 71 

out over the water with surrounding railings for pro- 
tection. On the floor of one might be seen a group 
of old men smoking their little pipes, three whiffs at 
a time, and discussing the affairs of the day. On an- 
other, near by, was a group of women sewing and 
chatting. A chubby baby rolled on the floor strug- 
gling to reach a gayly colored fire-fly, and a row of 
brightly dressed lasses leaned over the railing, laugh- 
ing and talking, admiring their reflections in the 
water below, and slyly shaking their sleeves at the 
boys who were watching them from the other side. 
In spite of all their rigid etiquette girls will flirt, and 
though not allowed to speak to the objects of their 
admiration, the language of the fan and the waving 
sleeve is as intelligible and impressive as that of the 
lips. 

It is sad to think that all this happy looking scene 
must soon vanish like a gay bubble, and that the peo- 
ple must perish with it. No happy life beyond for 
them ; no hope, except for eternal forgetfulness. 
Well may they enjoy their little day while it lasts. 




•72 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBI8E. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

ON THE TOKAIDO. 

TTHE Tokaido is the great thoroughfare, or "East- 
ern Sea" road, running between the two capitals. 
It is 307 miles loAg, and was built by the shoguns to 
furnish safe and rapid transit from their seat at 
Yedo to the Mikado's throne at Kioto. No visit to 
Japan is complete without a ride on the Tokaido. 
Matsuda procured five jin-riki sha runners, and on a 
cool morning started early for his distant field of 
labor. 

The jin-riki-sha, or "man-power-carriage," is a large 
baby-buggy on two wheels, drawn by a naked cooly 
instead of a horse. They are very light and make 
surprising speed. A trained runner will trot along 
at the rate of six miles an hour for forty miles at a 
stretch, _^only halting occasionally for refreshments 
while passing a tea-house, when he renews his tat- 
tered straw sandals and mops the perspiration from 
his tattooed body, smiling blandly all the time. But 
is it not an expensive mode of travel? Six cents per 
hour. So, with a fast runner, you get your ride for 
one cent per mile. 

It was a delightful experience to the children, as 
well as to the women, to travel for the first time on 
the national highway. From infancy they had known 
the names of the fifty-three stations by heart. One 



ON THE TOKAIDO. 



•73 



of the favorite games of Japan is a game of cards 
played for a goal, which is a coin or piece of cake 
placed at the end of fifty- three spaces and called 
Kioto, each game won being a station reached on the 
way. In this way they had learned Ihem so that they 
could repeat them in order from either end. Now, as 




Jm-riki-sha. 
(Runner covered with a rain-coat.) 



they sat in their queer little carriages, they found 
much amusement watching the two-legged pony trot- 
ting along with his curiously pictured back glistening 
in the sun, and clapping their hands with delight as 
they passed one after another of the old familiar land- 
marks which they recognized, though they had never 
seen them. 



74 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

All varieties of the life of populous Japan are rep- 
resented on the Tokaido, though one can get a full 
conception of the poverty of the lower classes only 
by leaving the beaten track and going through the 
interior. All along the road on each side could be 
seen the rice paddies, with the light wooden houses 
in the midst, some distance from the road. Many vil- 
lages thronged the road, and the runne-rs had to be 
careful to keep from running over the children that 
were playing in the middle of the streets. There 
were no horses used on Japanese streets then, so that 
children were allowed to make their play houses there 
with perfect security that they should not be trampled 
upon. Tea-houses with their ever-present smiling 
girls were abundant. There was no thought of pri- 
vacy anywhere, since, as we have seen, the rear of 
the house, which we would conceal, is always toward 
the street. Mothers could be seen dipping their dim- 
pled offspring into the bath tubs sitting on the ve- 
randa. Public bath rooms were open to full view, 
men and women going in and coining out indiscrimi- 
nately, Vith no thought of there being any impro- 
priety in so doing. In the village a woman sat in 
her tub two feet from where the jin-riki-sha passed, 
calmly scrubbing herself with a bag of rice bran, 
seemingly unconscious that there was any one near, 
at least perfectly indifferent to the fact. Passers-by 
were equally indifferent, for they noticed her no more 
than they would a hog lying in the sunshine. 

On each side of the road was a row of tall crypto- 
meria, or ancient pine trees, meeting overhead and 



ON THE TOKAIDO. 75 

forming a dense shade that had blessed many gen- 
erations of tired and thankful pilgrims. Streams 
also frequently ran along by the roots of the trees, 
adding to the refreshing influence of the checkered 
shadows of mid-day when the sun was beaming down 
on the glistening fields without. The road was hard 
and smooth, and the jinrikisha sped along at a 
lively rate. The party frequently stopped for a day 
at a lime at some of the most interesting places on 
the road, there being no special need for rushing. 
A Japanese never hurries, unless it is a cooly who 
is paid to do so. 

Before crossing the Hakone hills, jinriJcisJia had 
to be exchanged for Jcago, basket-like contrivances 
suspended on poles carried on the shoulders of two 
men. Here they were carried over a steep rocky 
foot-path, sometimes meeting rows of pack-horses 
in single file led by men in blue blouses and head- 
dress of blue-and-white towels, the ever-present garb 
of the peasantry. Sometimes they would meet a 
woman clothed only in blue cotton trousers and lead- 
ing a little pack-horse heavily burdened. From the 
Hakone range there is a magnificent sight of glorious 
Fuji-yama, the Hermon of Japan. It seems to rise 
up boldly from a plain, lifting with symmetrical 
curves its snow-crested summit to the clouds that 
love to linger upon its sacred peak. It is a beautiful 
sight to see its glistening head, on a quiet Summer's 
day, towering 12,000 feet above the plain, and sur- 
rounded with a filmy white cloud like a halo, intensi- 
fying the deep blue of the sky above it. But there 



76 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 



is no more sublime and magnificent sight than the 
sleeping beauty when it is enshrouded by dark storm- 
clouds, and swept by tempestuous winds. The Japa- 
nese have a legend that Fuji arose from the earth in 
one night, leaving, far away near Kioto, a corre- 
sponding depression which formed the clear blue 
Lake Biwa, It is a holy mountain, and contains many 




Halting for Refreshments. 



shrines. A road leads to its summit, with rest sta- 
tions every few miles, but it can rarely be ascended 
except in the Spring, for later on towards Winter its 
top is buried in clouds, and fi-erce winds rage for days 
together, even when all is quiet below. Many trav- 
elers have been swept off from its sides like feathers 



^8 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



and no one ever kuew what became of them; also for 
a greater part of the year its top is covered with 
snow, so that it can not be ascended. Fuji is one of 

the wonders of Ja- 
pan, and no picture 
is complete with- 
out it. Its fade- 
less grandeur is the 
crowning sight of 
the landscape vis- 
ible from thirteen 
provinces. Incom- 
ing vessels from 
abroad have their 
decks crowded with 
eager passengers 
skimming the hori- 
zon for the first 
view, and a cry of 
rapture goes up 
when through its 
fickle clouds it con- 
descends to reveal 
its noble form to 
"barbarian" eyes. 
The scenery around 
Hakone itself is of 
surpassing loveliness. The straw- thatched roofs of 
the village, nestling among the hills, with its one 
single street, the mirror-like waters of the lake re- 
flecting the delightful pictures above and around it, 
all furnish a rich feast for the traveler's eyes. 




Dai Butsu. 
(Great Buddha.) 



ON^ THE TOKAIDO. 79 

Just before reaching Yokohama Matsuda turned 
aside from the road for a few miles to visit with his 
mother the fast perishing ruins of Kamakura, the 
former capital of Yoritomo, under whose reign its 
population numbered 500,000 souls. But it is now 
little more than a sand heap. Nothing of importance 
remains except a great bronze image of Buddha, 
which, with the great bell of Kioto, is the only sub- 
stantial relic of the Golden Days of Buddhism under 
the first Shogun. The image is called Dai Butsu 
(Great Buddha), and represents the "Light of Asia" 
sitting in Nirvana upon a lotus blossom, the symbol 
of tranquillity. Aside from the similar statue at 
Nara, near Kioto, this is the greatest piece of art of 
its kind in Japan. Though in a sitting posture it is 
fifty feet high, and its inside forms a large temple. 
Tourists often climb into his lap and sit on his great 
folded thumbs to have their photographs taken. 
The face is one of serene repose. Earthquakes have 
caused him to nod on his lotus throne, and tidal waves 
from the sea twice have rolled over him, destroying 
the great wooden temples that had been erected 
above him, but still he sits in undisturbed repose, a 
sleep dreamless and eternal, oblivious to all the 
throes of nature and the pangs of existence. So 
sleeps Buddha; so hope to sleep all who follow him 
in the "path of illumination." 

The devout old woman gazed reverently upon the 
dead peacefulness of that bronze face and longed for 
the time when she, too, could be like him, insensible 
to all outward impressions, undisturbed by the might- 



ON THE TOKAIDO. 81 

iest physical disasters; no life nor death, no recogni- 
tion of friends, no separation from loved ones — only 
Lethe! No wonder hara-kiri is so common. Where 
there is no dread of future punishment annihilation 
is preferable to a life that is often miserable at best. 
Returning to the main road, Matsuda and his party 
proceeded as far as Kanagawa, on the shore of Yedo 
Bay, sixteen miles from Tokio. Here they left the 
Tokaido and crossed a causeway over a marshy la- 
goon, two miles to the other side, where Yokohama 
had sprung up like an enchantment of AUadin, but it 
had come to stay. Yokohama had been an insignifi- 
cant fishing village, where it was decided that the 
first treaty port should be opened. Lying just across 
the arm of the bay from the town of Kanagawa, 
which it supplied with fish, it got its name from its 
position — Yolco (across), hama (strand). 

6 



82 IJS^ TRE LAND OF TUB SUNBISK 



CHAPTER IX. 
LIFE IN YOKOHAMA. 

FROM a fishing village Yokohama had suddenly 
been transformed into a metropolis, one of the 
great trading ports of the world. The government 
expended liberal sums of money in making it a con- 
venient and pleasant place. An elevated causeway 
was constructed across the strip of water, connect- 
ing it with Kanagawa and the Tokaido, and hence 
with Tokio. Junks from Osaka, the Inland Sea, and 
all ports of the empire now made it one of their reg- 
ular stopping places. Immense steamers, resembling 
great floating cities, made monthly trips between 
here and San Francisco. All vessels sailing between 
China and the United States landed here, both going 
and coming. In fact, Yokohama was now shaking 
hands with the whole world. 

The city is built upon a low plain, nearly one square 
mile in area, and on the sides and top of the range of 
hills that surround it. On a picturesque promontory 
of one of these, south of the town, is the "Bluff" 
where the foreign residents have their homes. These 
are beautiful villas and cottages surrounded by lux- 
uriant gardens, and with smoothly paved streets in 
front. In the cool of the day splendid carriages 
drawn by fine imported horses dash by in all direc- 
tions, filled with gay pleasure seekers. The view 




Art Gallery. 



84 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



from the Bluff is entrancing beyond description. 
First always you see Fuji's peerless cone with its 
changing hues, if the day is clear. Then the nearer 
landscape attracts you. The hills are terraced to the 
top and cultivated to the highest stage of perfection 
with perfectly kept Japanese gardens. Beyond the 




street in Yokohama. 



creek that skirts the hill is a serpentine strip of low- 
land, reclaimed from the ancient marshes, and con- 
verted into fields of green growing rice, surrounded 
with deep ditches that collect the water and irrigate 
the fields as they need it. The hills all around are 
dotted with their neat European houses, each upon 



LIFE IN YOKOHAMA. 85 

its own well kept terrace, and surrounded with vistas 
of native trees and semi-tropical vegetation of every 
variety. 

Tlie city itself is divided into several different quar- 
ters. Europeans (including Americans always) are 
grouped together in a prescribed limit called the 
' 'Concession. " Here they have their business houses, 
hotels and clubs. The principal business street was 
the Bund, or Sea Road, which runs along the stone 
wall by the shore. Later the business has mostly 
been transferred to Main Street. 

Besides the native town there is also a "China- 
town," where ordinary Celestials and pompous "Com- 
pradores" live. These last are the Chinese brokers 
and commission merchants who absolutely control the 
markets of the city, everything having to pass through 
their hands. 

The bay is dotted with small craft, black merchant 
vessels, white men-of-war, red canal tugs, and an oc- 
casional steamer for a distant port. When a foreign 
vessel arrives there is a scene of the wildest confusion 
and indescribable uproar to one not familiar with 
such. Swift moving -sampar/s propelled by half -naked 
coolies, whose heads are covered with the omnipres- 
ent blue -and -white cotton towel, dart around seeking 
passengers to be conveyed to the shore, since large 
steamers can not reach the landing. ' Little tugs 
smoke and puff as they plow back and forth with the 
mail. The landing is covered with jinrikisha, whose 
clamoring drivers (?) each propose to do you the best 
service possible. 



86 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 



At first sight our new comers were shocked at what 
they saw. The city was too much Japanese to be 
foreign, and yet too foreign to be recognized as Japan- 
ese. The charm of native life was all gone, and 
there was not enough of real foreign life to recom- 




Basket Maker on way to Market. 



mend it. Then the "barbarians" themselves, how 
horrid ! How strange to see strong-looking men with 
light hair and blue eyes, and whiskers all over their 
faces — it was disgusting ! The Japanese all have in- 



LIFE IN YOKOHAMA. 87 

tensely black hair and eyes, and at that time were 
smooth-faced. The manners of the foreigners, too, 
were revolting in the extreme. One burly English- 
man was seen deliberately to kick a cooly and swear 
at him ! They all seemed bullies, and from a native 
standpoint they were. Time is too short, even if 
they felt disposed, for English and American trades- 
men to get down on their faces when they meet. 
They are too practical to spend needless time in de- 
basing self and exalting the party addressed. Yet, 
while many ruffians had found their way hither, as 
they always do at such places, there were enough of 
the better class to show to the unprejudiced native 
that not all were worthy to be called "foreign dev- 
ils, " as they had been named. 

Whatever may have been the first impressions of a 
native visiting Yokohama, his keen intelligence and 
quick perception soon caused him to see the great 
advantages that had come with the foreigner, and he 
was stimulated to enter enthusiastically into making 
the best of his opportunities. 

Matsuda procured a neat little house and garden in 
the Japanese quarter and settled down to live as near 
in his former style as was in keeping with his pres- 
ent circumstances. His duties were not burdensome, 
since he was only required to act as a kind of head 
policeman to see that the conditions of the treaties, 
the custom laws, etc., were properly carried out. It 
was more a position of honor than otherwise. 

A new and grave problem now arose. The oldest 
two boys, Ichiro and Saburo, were now old enough 



88 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

to be in school, being seventeen and thirteen respect- 
ively. Their father had determined to give them a 
thorough education according to the foreign methods, 
so that they could take their place among the rising 
young men of the country and become useful citizens. 
The trouble was that there was no school in reach, 
except one taught by a Christian missionary, and 
Matsuda still shared in the national and inherited 
hatred against the "Corrupt Sect." 

Recently the edicts against Christianity had been 
revived and new orders given to enforce them. It 
was found since the opening of the country that near 
Nagasaki, in spite of all the horrible persecutions 
and the diligent secret detective service employed for 
so long a time, there were about ten thousand who 
now avowed themselves as adherents to the forbidden 
faith. Through two and a half centuries they had 
clung to the dim traditions of a Saviour who could 
lead them to a better life. True, they knew next to 
nothing of practical Christianity, and nothing of the 
Bible, yet their open profession caused a renewal of 
the edicl:s. When the government undertook to en- 
force them, however, the foreign powers resented it 
as an offense against them, since they were from 
Christian lands. This led to considerations that re- 
sulted in religious freedom for Japan. A number of 
American teachers who had been employed to teach 
in the interior also had much to do in securing free- 
dom of conscience for the natives. When the gov- 
ernment inserted in the contract a clause by which 
they agreed not to open their mouths on religious 



LIFE IN YOKOHAMA. 89 

questions they refused to sign them and the objec- 
tionable words were stricken out. They now taught 
the Bible openly in their schools and tried to impress 
upon the students the fact that Christianity and edu- 
cation should go together. 

It was plain to all who considered the matter that 
the religion of these teachers was very different from 
that taught by the Jesuits of the Sixteenth Century. 
It encouraged to peace, required submission to rulers, 
and sought to enlighten the people; whereas, the 
Catholic religion had held the people in ignorance of 
even the fundamental truths of religion, and had 
sought to overthrow the government by intrigue. 

Aside from his inborn prejudice against Chris- 
tianity, Matsuda had no longer any religious convic- 
tions to speak of. During the busy and stormy 
scenes of the past few years he had scarcely given it 
a thought, more than to see that his mother had its 
privileges. The popular superstitions of the people 
he now recognized as folly. Buddhism had lost its 
place as a national religion, and the Emperor had de- 
stroyed the sanctity of Shinto by appearing in open 
daylight as a mere man. It really seemed to many 
people now that religion amounted to but little any- 
how. It was certain that the existing religions could 
show nothing to recommend them except a few bells, 
images and temples of wonderful carvings. As to 
the life of the people, there were more than 32,000,- 
000 who were degraded from the rank of citizenship 
to that of semi-brutes,. many of them being consid- 
ered as "not-human." Matsuda, with all his preju- 



90 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

dice, could see that Christianity was gradually bring- 
ing the extreme high and low classes to a common 
level. It had come with the new civilization, and if 
it could improve matters he had no objection to it. 
He cared nothing about the spiritual influence it 
claimed. He was beginning to believe, with a great 
many more of his country, that everything spiritual 
was simply superstition, and hence looked upon the 
matter from a purely rationalistic standpoint. 

After some months of personal observation of the 
lives and characters of the Christian teachers, he 
decided that his children were not likely to be in- 
jured by them, and so he placed the two boys under 
the care of Mr. Miller, while Mrs. Miller came to 
teach Toki and Chrysanthemum at home. Having 
disposed of the matter to his satisfaction he gave 
it no more attention, but devoted himself to his busi- 
ness and let things go on in their own way with no 
uneasiness as to the result. He had always forbid- 
den the nurses to excite the superstitions of the chil- 
dren by telling them the popular nursery tales about 
fox spirits, wind imps, ghosts, etc., and he was glad 
to learn that the Christians also discouraged such 
things, for from time immemorial both women and 
children had been educated into a painful dread 
of imaginary hobgoblins that were supposed to be in 
the air, and of the great fish in the center of the 
earth, the shaking of whose tail caused the earth- 
quakes. 

Toki's ideas as to Christianity were much more 
favorable than her husband's. True, she had been 



LIFE IN YOKOHAMA. 91 

frightened when a child by the very mention of the 
' 'Barbarian Criminal God, " Yasu, but now her quick 
intuition had taken in the situation at a glance, af fcer 
having observed the state of affairs at Yokohama. 
She delighted in the new order of things and entered 
with great zeal upon the studies proposed by Mrs. 
Miller. 

It should be remembered that while woman in 
Japan is nominally a drudge and inferior to man, 
yet in reality she often rises above him in the intel- 
lectual scale, and as a general thing receives more 
respect than she does in most eastern countries. 
Nearly all the standard popular books that are read 
by everybody in Japan, such as our Robinson Crusoe, 
were written by women. They knew only the native 
dialect, whereas would-be scholars affected Chinese 
as many of ours have affected Latin, and as no one 
can write a masterpiece in any save his own tongue, 
their works are comparative failures, while those of 
their less pretentious wives will live forever. 

Toki was well trained intellectually, and made good 
progress in learning English and in gaining a knowl- 
edge of the Bible, which she taught to her children. 
She was surprised that so many ladies who called upon 
her expressed such undisguised contempt for mis- 
sionaries. True, they were hairy, and uncouth in 
their manners, from a Japanese standpoint, but she 
thought allowance should be made for the differences 
of custom in the land whence they came. Some 
spoke lightly of the arrival of a new missionary as a 
joke for the amusement of a dinner party. When 



92 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 



any one so far forgot himself in this hybrid commu- 
nity as to fail in some point of etiquette he would 
excuse himself on the grounds that he had been 
among missionaries and had learned bad manners 
from them. This always pained Toki, and she wished 
that the missionaries, for their own sake, would try 
to adapt themselves to the customs of the country. 




A PILGRIMAGE TO NIKKO. 93 



CHAPTER X. 
A PILGRIMAGE TO NIKKO. 

/• RANDMOTHER KIMURA took no interest in the 
N new-fashioned ways into which the country had 
fallen. She was too old to learn a new religion or 
new customs. So she spent her days in quiet devo- 
tion, with an occasional pilgrimage to some holy 
shrine. It had long been her cherished desire to visit 
Nikko, the tomb and shrine of lyeyasu, one of the 
most famous places in Japan. So remarkable is its 
splendor that it has given rise to a proverb: "He who 
has not seen Nikko has no right to say kekko! — (beau- 
tiful)." 

Nikko is the great summer resort for the higher 
classes of Tokio. Here many of them seek refuge 
from the heat of the flat and blistering streets, and 
lodge in the ancient temples or camp under the cool, 
solemn shade of giant trees. It was now near the 
close of the hot season, and many were leaving, but 
Matsuda found the family of a government official 
who were going from Yokohama to spend a few days, 
so he consigned his mother to their care, and ar- 
ranged for her to go before the winter season should 
come on. 

Nikko is about one hundred miles north of Tokio. 
The recently completed railroad was not then con- 
structed, so they had to go thirty miles by boat, and 



S4 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



the remaining seventy in jinrikisha. The great road 
which leads from the landing to the tomb is a marvel 
of engineering. It is graded almost as perfectly as 
a railroad, cutting through hills and built up across 
valleys. It was constructed over two hundred years 
ago, and made as even as possible in order that the 
bodies of the great shoguns that were borne over it 




8acred Bridge. 



might have a smooth and safe journey to their splen- 
did, but mournfully solemn resting place. On each 
side, and arching overhead, are rows of tall and an- 
cient cryptomeria trees that guard, like lines of grim 
soldiery, this imperial highway to the grave. Some 
of the trees are four or five feet in diameter, and one 
hundred and fifty feet high. By their roots run 
streams of clear mountain water, always refreshing 



A PILGRIMAGE TO NIKKO. 95 

and musical with their rippling flow. The road itself 
has been canonized, and hence is sacred. It is very 
smooth and hard, having been trodden by the feet of 
many generations. Tea-houses are abundant on this 
road, as on all others. The coolies stopped every few 
miles for refreshments, and to renew their straw 
sandals. The road was literally strewn with these 
cast off remnants of foot-gear from the feet of many 
runners, this having been an unusually busy season, 
and the straw soles not enduring for more than a few 
miles' run. 

Dashing through the long sloping street on which 
the town of Nikko was strung, crossing a beautiful 
liill a little beyond, they came to a rushing stream 
spanned by two bridges, one of plain wood, which 
"was crossed by jinrikisha and foot passengers, the 
other an enclosed structure of red lacquer highly or- 
namented, which could be crossed only by the shogun 
in former times, and now by the Emperor. Here the 
cooly turned in the shafts and, as he mopped his 
grinning face, exclaimed ecstatically, 

"NIKKO, nikko!" 

Sure enough, beyond the stream was a thickly 
wooded hill-side, near the top of which, at the end of 
long, dim avenues of tall cryptomerias, stood a tow- 
ering pagoda and the imposing gateways to the two 
temples built in front of the graves of lyeyasu and 
lyemitsu, his grandson, who completed the struct- 
ures. No one save the Emperor dares to touch the 



96 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

sacred bridge covered with its red lacquer and orna- 
mented with its many tips and plates of brass. When 
Gen. Grant stood before it, the Emperor, desiring to 
show the highest possible honor to his guest, ordered 
the gates to be thrown open that the distinguished 
ex-President might pass over. But the modest sol- 
dier had no claims to divinity by which to justify 
such an act, which to the people would seem a dese- 
cration, so he politely declined. 

No book has ever yet satisfactorily described 
Nikko. In fact, it is beyond the power of words to 
express. No photography can reproduce it. Its sol- 
emn shadows, its velvety mossy banks, its crystal 
streams of trickling water whose music is unceasing, 
its varieties of color and exquisite combinations of 
shades a.nd tints, its solemn silence mournfully mu- 
sical with rustling leaves and gurgling waters, can 
not be reproduced except in the imaginative memory 
of the departed visitor who shuts his eyes and sees 
afresh the scenes that bewildered him when he stood 
among them in person. You can see, hear, and feel 
Nikko, but you can not describe it. So I shall only 
point out some of the most prominent features, and 
leave the rest to the reader's imagination or to the 
satisfaction of a future visit. 

Mrs. Kimura and her party crossed the plain 
wooden bridge, passed a little scarlet-colored shrine 
at the edge of the wood, and entered the avenue lead- 
ing up the steep hill to the gate of the lyeyasu tem- 
ple, which is the most important of the two. The 
tall cryptomerias look like needle-shaped pines, their 



A PILGRIMAGE TO NIKKO. 



97 



sides touching overhead. They stand on high mossy 
banks on each side of the stone-flagged pathway. In 
the center of the path, running in a channel cut for 
it, is a glassy cool stream always laughing and dart- 
ing by as if anxious to reach the bottom to greet new 
visitors. On one side they passed the walls of a 
great monastery. At the summit of this ascent is a 




Approach to the Temple. 



lofty torii of immense granite posts, three feet in 
diameter and over twenty -seven feet high, with a. 
heavy up-curving cross-piece. Through this com- 
manding entrance, emblematical of national pride 
and patriotism, they entered upon a broad stone 
piazza. Around this were one hundred and eighteen 
magnificent stone lanterns on immense pedestals of 
7 



98 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

granite, each bearing inscriptions of the posthumous 
title of lyeyasu, the name of the daimyo who gave it, 
and a legend of its origin. To the left, on the stone 
platform, rose a tall pagoda of five stories, its walls 
gleaming with red lacquer, its railings and roof trim- 
mings covered with brass, every angle hung with 
bells, a wonderfully curved roof on top, and -its bot- 
tom story painted with twelve animals representing 
the signs of the zodiac. To the right, in a crypto- 
meria glade reached by a short flight of moss-covered 
steps, stands a little gem of a temple surrounded with 
deep grass dotted with flowers. Inside of it are rich 
paintings and a great bell, it having been provided in 
order that worship migl^t be continued here in case 
the larger temples should be closed. 

After passing under the great stone to7Hi the party 
stood on the level platform for a few moments to look 
at the scenes without, then proceeded straight ahead 
up a flight of crumbling mossy steps to the magnifi- 
cent gateway leading to the first court of the temple. 
The gateway itself, with its heavy curved roof and 
its exqufeite carvings, might have held an artist en- 
raptured for hours, were it not for a glimpse of what 
lay beyond, making the beholder too impatient to re- 
main to see what could be viewed from the outside 
any day. Inside they passed through a pebbled 
court enclosed by a red wooden wall. Here were 
three magnificent treasure houses for the temples, 
containing all the things that the great Shogun 
c illed his own and prized in this life. There is also 
a handsome stable in which is kept the sacred white 



A riLGBIMAGE TO NIKKO. 99 

Albino pony for the use of the gods. Crossing the 
court on the walk of flag stones, the visitors stood 
before a great stone water-tank covered by a canopy, 
gorgeous in its colors of scarlet and gold, and sup- 
ported by twelve stone pillars. The huge block is 
so accurately leveled that the water, rising up from 
the bottom, glides down the sides so evenly as to look 
like a solid cube of ice. Near this also is a building 
containing the Buddhist Scriptures, numbering nearly 
seven thousand volumes. They were arranged in a 
large revolving case, and the priest told the visitors 
that if they wished to gain the merit of having read 
them all they might each take hold and revolve the 
case three times, and they should receive full credit 
of knowing the sacred canon by heart. They all 
obeyed in great sincerity and passed on with a feel- 
ing of deep satisfaction. 

They now passed under a noble bronze torii leading 
to another paved pathway up the hill. Three tiers 
of stone steps rose in succession. On each side was 
a stone balustrade and a row of iron lanterns, the 
head of the steps being protected by stone lions 
leaping down on each side. Crowning the third 
flight is the indescribable Yomeimon gateway, un- 
surpassed by any the world has ever seen. Visitors 
stand before it for hours at a time, day after day, and 
gaze upon it with increasing rapture. The match-j 
less white stone columns which . support its immense! 
roof are crowned by capitals of wonderfully carved! 
heads of a mythical animal of the Middle Ages. 
One of the pillars was purposely placed upside down 



A PILGBIMAGE TO NIKKO. K)l 

to avert evil, the architect being afraid that the jeal- 
ousy of the gods might break out upon him if he 
completed to perfection so heavenly a structure. 
Above is a beetling balcony with a wonderful balus- 
trade supported by carved groups of playing chil- 



i 






1 


1 




:^^^ 


1 


M 




B^ 


1 


H 












■ 






i 



Nearer View of the Yomeimon. 



dren. The cornices are carvings of ancient sages, 
and the superb roof crowning all is supported by 
dragons' heads perfectly carved. So much in gen- 
eral; it is impossible to describe the infinite details 
of its exquisite workmanship, its richly painted 



102 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

beams, its life-like imagery in carvings, its gorgeous- 
ness of coloring in gold, red and glittering white. 

The awe -stricken group held their breath and 
passed through to the next court. Each passage was 
from splendor to splendor. Could it be that the de- 
parted warrior had an idea of degrees in heaven that 
he arranged the approach to his tomb in such a suc- 
cession of progressive glories? The visitors passed 
through this last court so oppressed with the view of 
its magnificence that they were anxious to reach the 
climax — the temple — when they could feel relieved 
that there was nothing grander yet to be seen. Too 
much splendor is absolutely painful to those not 
enough accustomed to it to be indifferent toward it. 
They pressed through the remaining gate, no less 
magnificent, though smaller than the other, and then 
paused with reverent awe, for they stood under the 
dim shadow of the shed that leads into the golden 
temple itself. Here they pulled off their shoes and 
fell upon their faces in worship, tossing a few coins 
wrapped in paper upon the temple floor. Inside it is 
sufiicient 1;o say that the climax of Japanese art in its 
Golden Age is represented. Its floors are covered 
with the finest lacquer ever laid. Its finely paneled 
ceiling is covered with golden dragons on a richly 
blue lacquered background. Gilded doors mercifully 
conceal the "severe magnificence" of four inner 
rooms. The roof is an upheaving sea of carvings, 
gables and multiplied grandeurs. After seeing all 
that was visible without and in the corridors the pil- 
grims breathlessly approached the inner shrine, half 



104 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

fearing to look upon what they naturally expected to 
be the concentration of every possible splendor, 
splendor. They entered and beheld — a black lacquer 
table and upon it a round metal mirror, reflection of 
the Sun Goddess! The Mikado had recently re- 
moved all the Buddhistic pomps, and replaced them 
by the plainer symbols of the restored Shinto faith. 

Still where is lyeyasu? 

The priest conducted them back through the gate 
that led to the next court, turned to the right, passed 
through a little canopied door that opened upon a 
flight of two hundred and forty mossy stone steps 
leading to the top of the hill immediately behind and 
above the temple. At the top was another lofty 
torii, another shrine, a great stone- and-bronze tomb 
on which was a bronze urn, and under it the dust of 
the great Shogun. As were the temple and tomb of 
lyeyasu, so were those of lyemitsu, only little less 
magnificent. 

lyeyasu's tomb is emblematic of his life. Through 
universal victory and from glory to glory his path- 
way had'led, then terminated in death — silent, hope- 
less, everlasting death — Nirvana. 

In front and below were all that human art at its 
best could do to adorn his resting place. All around, 
even at noon-day. Nature has thrown a pall of per- 
petual twilight. Great evergreen cryptomerias, with 
their somber foliage meeting high over head, shut 
out the sunlight, and their tall, straight bodies look 
like the cloistered columns of a vast temple in whose 
lofty ceiling of dark green foliage and distant shady 



A PILOBIMAQE TO NIKKO. 



105 



colonnades the hushed voices of the worshipers 
awake no echoes. No flowers bloom in its sunless 
mossy soil, no bird sings its notes of joy. The water 
trickles ceaselessly, the leaves rustle gently in the 
scarcely perceptible breeze that sifts through. Over- 
head a solitary rook 
cries with a mourn- 
ful croak befitting 
the scene, far and 
near are mossy 
shrines and steps 
and silent Buddhas. 
These are all the 
visitors saw to re- 
mind them of Jap- 
an's greatest states- 
man. What must 
be the emotions of 
a sensitive soul 
when viewing such 
a scene for the first 
time! A foreigner 
who was just leav- 
ing, and who did not 
have to depend up- 
on the Buddhist re- 
ligion for salvation, remarked, "I am overcome with 
reverence for a religion that can produce a work like 
that and teach the people to appreciate it." Alas, if 
religion wei-e only the appreciation of art how easy to 
be saved and to teach men so! A pious missionary 




Tomb of lyeyasu. 



106 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

turned away with a feeling almost of despair. "Alas!"" 
he said, "who can combat successfully a religion that 
inspires such strong emotions!" 

As for Grandmother Kimura, she stood speechless, 
pensive. She thought, "All this is overpowering to 
us pilgrims, but what effect does it have on dead 
lyeyasu? After all, does the life of the greatest 
man lead through all his funereal splendor to perish 
in solitude amid the dashing of waterfalls, the croak- 
ing of rooks, and the sighing of ancient pines? But 
even Dai Butsu promises no better. It is only Nir- 
vana. What was it that the foreign lady said to Toki 
and Kiku the other day about a land beyond that is 
fairer than our brightest day dreams; a city brighter 
than the sun; mansions of heavenly splendor where 
families are reunited and live forever without sorrow 
or parting, praising God, the Life of their souls? I 
paid but little attention to it then, but surely if that 
be true it is better than this. Better a soul living in 
bliss beyond than a body mouldering in silent splendor 
here. Oh, I wish I had listened to what she said and 
let her ]»ead to me from the Book that told about it. 

The party remained for several days, visiting 
shrine after shrine, and admiring the endless beau- 
ties that daily opened to their bewildered eyes. But 
Grandmother Kimura had lost interest. She wanted 
to learn about the other world of which she had 
heard only a word, and which the emptiness of all 
she saw made all the more desirable. It was with a 
sigh of relief that she finally joined the party on the 
way home, she went home praying. 



AMONG THE AINU. 107 



CHAPTER XI. 

AMONG THE AINU. 



pOMPLAINTS had recently come to the govern- 
>v ment about abuses practiced upon the Ainu, in 
Yezo, by Japanese traders. Matsuda, who was now 
fully acquainted with all the regulations, was des- 
patched to go to Yezo with a posse of mounted police 
and see that the laws were properly executed, and 
that the Ainu received justice. 

These hairy savages were the aborigines of Japan, 
who, being a mild and inoffensive people, were driven 
from place to place by the more powerful and warlike 
Japanese until they were finally colonized in Yezo, 
the northern island. Hitherto they had been looked 
upon as dogs, and were called "Aino" (Mongrel, Cur), 
and treated as if they had been brutes. But recently 
the government had undertaken to protect them, and 
found that they made peaceable and law-abiding cit- 
izens when they had the opportunity. The Japanese 
traders, however, were in the habit of making them 
drunk and then taking all kinds of mean advantage 
of them. 

The Ainu are a very timid people, and have such a 
fearful dread of others, especially of their conquer- 
ors, the Japanese, that Matsuda found great difficulty 
in coming near them and gaining their confidence. 
Gradually, however, by presents and assurances of 



108 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

kindness, he so gained their esteem that they were 
glad to have him visit their poor huts, and became 
quite free in conversation with him, a thing that had 
never been accomplished before. He had been com- 
missioned to find out all he could about them and 
make an official report to the government in regard 
to their numbers, their manners and customs, and 
their religion, very little being known about them be- 
yond the fact that they were there, a savage com- 
munity. Hitherto no one had considered them as 
human beings, but now the government had made 
them citizens and was endeavoring to get a census of 
them. The time had been when as a samurai Matsuda 
would have cut down with his sword any one of the 
poor wretches whom he met, with as little compunc- 
tion of conscience as he would have felt in slaying a 
wolf. But now he had overcome his prejudice, and 
was glad to do them a service. Leaving his men to 
guard the frontier and keep the peace, he proceeded 
into the thickest settled part of the country and took 
Tip his abode with one of the strongest chiefs. 

The'house of Chief Bura, Matsuda's host, was like 
all other Ainu houses, only larger than those of the 
other men of the village. It was composed almost 
entirely of reeds, and like a Japanese house, the roof 
was put on first. Posts were set in the ground for 
the corners and supports. Poles were strapped on 
the top, middle and bottom of these as cross pieces to 
which the long reeds were fastened in a vertical posi- 
tion, tied on with bark. The long rafters for the 
steep roof were tied on to the top poles before the 



AMONG THE AINU. 109 

walls were fastened on, and the roof was thatched 
with straw. An opening was left in the south end for 
a door; two others, protected by rude shutters, were 
left near the eaves, one in the east side, the other in 
the south. Then you have a house. They have no 
floor nor furniture, for they need none. An oblong 
opening in the ground in the center of the room 
serves for fireplace, kitchen and dining-room. Here 
at one end the fire is made to warm the inmates; at 
the other end, from a suspended hook, hangs a black 
pot in which the rice is cooked for the daily meals. 
Much ceremony is observed around this fireside. 
Each one of the family is provided with a special 
place to sit according to rank, a seat of honor being 
reserved for visitors, which was filled by Matsuda, 
who sat on the bearskin rug prepared for him. The 
ceremonious reception of visitors is always conduct- 
ed by the fireplace. When dinner time comes the 
mother opens the pot hanging over the fire and helps 
the family to rice, putting a ladleful in each little 
lacquer bowl, which is waved gracefully back and 
forth in an act of worship before partaking. 

The east window is sacred, since it looks toward 
the Rising Sun. Nothing is ever thrown out of it, 
and it is considered a great desecration for any one 
to look in through it. Before it every morning the 
old chief offered his prayers. Just without this win- 
dow was a scaffold, which served as an altar. On it 
were bears' heads and other offerings. The Ainu 
have no temples, but around a sacred spot they place 
white wands stuck in the ground and whittled at the 



110 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

top into long shavings that are left to hang down. 
These are called inao. A man who has no inao is 
most unfortunate, and can not hope for the favor of 
gods or men. Some travelers had reported that they 
worshiped these inao as gods. But they have no 
images or visible objects of worship, as Matsuda 
found, and the wands are simply offerings that are 
believed to be most acceptable to the gods. When in 
a storm at sea inao are cut from switches always 
kept for the purpose, and thrown into the water to 
propitiate the goddess of the sea and induce her to 
quiet the storm. The bear is the most highly prized 
treasure they ever possess. They go on a hunt every 
year, and when a bear is killed there is great rejoic- 
ing in the whole village, and a feast follows with 
much drinking of sake, itself an act of worship. A 
cub is usually kept in a cage and fattened for such a 
feast when the hunt fails. To offer a bear's head to 
the gods is to make a most acceptable sacrifice. 

Matsuda's bed was on one side of the room. Pour 
short forks were driven into the ground to support 
poles, on which rough boards were laid and covered 
with bearskins. This made a hard, but not uncom- 
fortable bed for a Japanese who had slept on a mat 
on the floor all his life. 

Matsuda noticed that the women were treated with 
much less respect than the women of his own coun- 
try. They were not recognized as human beings, not 
allowed to have any part in any of the men's feasts 
or even worship, the men being afraid for the women 
to pray, believing them to be in league with evil 



AMONG THE AINU. Ill 

spirits. The women do all the work, while the men 
Tiunt, fish or lie around and drink. When they came 
in they always made very respectful salutations to 
the men and walked out backwards, a woman never 
Taeing allowed to turn her back on a man. The 
younger women were often very pretty, with clear, 
rich complexions, but by the revolting process of 
tattooing they soon became hideous. Broad black 
stripes were tattooed around the mouth, and extend- 
ed from the corners, causing the mouth to seem to 
extend from ear to ear. The eyebrows were also 
connected across the forehead. 

Most of the men were really fine looking, their 
long flowing beards giving them a patriarchal ap- 
pearance. Their voices were soft, and their lan- 
guage more musical than the Japanese. They were 
gentle and scrupulously polite in their manners. 
Although they show no special regard for their 
wives, they are very affectionate to their children, 
often caressing them by the hour. 

On no account will an Ainu approach a grave. The 
spirit of the departed is believed to hover near for a 
while, and takes fearful revenge upon any one who 
intrudes. For this reason the dead are always buried 
far away in the forest, and a sign is placed over the 
grave so that no one may approach it without warn- 
ing. The men are specially afraid of the ghosts of 
the women, who are believed to have gone to the 
evil world. The poor creatures are so badly mis- 
treated in this world that it is but natural for their 
abusers to fear that they will take revenge when they 



AMONG THE AINU. 113 

become spirits and can do it without being discov- 
ered. 

The Ainu never wash their bodies nor change their 
clothes except on occasions of a feast or worship. 
The usual seasons of worship are at the bear feast 
following a hunt, at a house-warming, at a burial, or 
any great event that seems to demand it. Worship 
consists in offering inao and drinking sake. On such 
occasions they drink till in a state of beastly intoxi- 
cation, in which they lie for several days, sincerely 
believing that in this way they are serving the gods 
in the most acceptable manner. They can not con- 
ceive of how the gods can be worshiped without sake, 
which is so highly prized among themselves. 

The people all greatly reverence the memory of 
Yoshitsune, Yoritomo's badly mistreated brother, 
who is believed to have spent his exile in their coun- 
try and to have taught them several useful arts. His 
name figures largely in their legends, -and there is a 
shrine erected to him at Piratori. It is not for wor- 
ship, since they never worship images, but serves as 
a memorial of a grateful people to their only bene- 
factor. Their own dead they never mention on ac- 
count of the dread they have of them. For this, 
reason they can have no history. There is no writ- 
ten language, and their oral legends are mostly about 
gods and heroes of other times. 

Matsuda became greatly interested in ascertaining 
their views of God and the future state, which were 
so different from anything that he had ever heard 
among the Buddhists. He found that they believe 



114 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

in one Supreme God and a multitude of inferior gods. 
They also believe in evil as well as good deities. 
The ancestor of their race is greatly reverenced, 
-though not worshiped. Both men and animals are 
believed to have immortal souls, and all will be 
judged alike. The spirits of dead animals guard 
their living masters. 

It is a very rare thing that the people will talk to 
a stranger about their religious beliefs, but on the 
night before Matsuda left, old chief Bura had im- 
bibed a liberal amount of sake, and, as a consequence, 
was unusually religious and in an affable frame of 
mind. When the family had all gathered around the 
firehole at night, each sitting in his own proper 
place on the ground, Matsuda on his bearskin at the 
east end, the subject of ghosts came up. Matsuda 
ventured to ask what were their views of the future 
life, having seen that they entertained different ideas 
from any he had ever heard. After much rubbing of 
his hands and stroking of his long curly beard in 
deference to his distinguished guest, old Bura began 
to relate "a story: 

''In a great hill many miles away there is a dark 
cavern. Through this gloomy passage the spirits of 
the dead enter the other world. A man had lost his 
father and mother. Tradition said that they had 
gone through the cavern to the world beyond. T]:is 
man was not afraid. He carried a strong bow and a 
quiver full of arrows. He said he would visit that 
land whence none had ever returned and find his 
parents. Fearlessly he plunged into the darkness. 



AMONG THE AINU. 115 

Blindly he stumbled on. The way was long and 
dark. Finally he saw a little light far away. At last 
it grew larger, and he saw that he was approaching 
ihe entrance to the cavern from the other side. He 
stepped out into the dazzling light of a greater sun 
than that of this world. On a broad plain basking in 
the radiant sunlight were many villages. He saw 
that the people live there as they do here, only hap- 
pier and better. More birds sang with sweeter music, 
and the woods looked greener. 

"The man went on. He came to a large village in 
which his father lived. The dogs ran wildly here 
and there. They smelt a ghost, but could not see 
him. In that world a man from this world is to them 
like a ghost is with us. He found his father. He 
was sitting by the door in the sun. The man spoke 
to him. He asked him to go back to his home and to 
his children. The old man was frightened. He 
looked up and down and all around. He heard a 
voice, but could see nothing. Others came. They 
heard and were distressed. 

"The man saw that he only frightened them, and 
that they were better off there than here. Then he 
started to leave them there and return home. This 
time the passage seemed darker and colder. In the 
darkness he met a soul descending. He spoke to it, 
but the soul shrieked with fear and rushed on. It 
was so dark that he could not see the soul's face. He 
arrived at home. He went to tell his nearest neigh- 
bor what he had seen. They said his neighbor had 
just died, and so that was his soul which he had met 



116 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

in the dark passage. The man shivered and went to 
his home. So there is no good from following the 
dead or inquiring after them. Let them alone."* 

*For informatiOQ about these wonderful people see 'THE AINU OF 
JAPAN," by Bachelor. They number about 17.000. and are becoming ex- 
tinct from dissipation and internal wars. A mission has been established 
among them. The native church now numbers 30 members. 




A PAINFUL DISGOVEBY. 117 



CHAPTER XII. 

A PAINFUL DISCOVERY. 

TTHE government was now making active endeavors 
to elevate the lower classes, who constituted a 
greater portion of the people. While the upper 
classes had attained a high state of civilization, still 
the masses, on account of the oppressions which they 
had suffered, had sunken to a correspondingly low 
extreme. New laws recently enacted by the govern- 
ment required the people to wear clothing, a thing 
which millions had not been accustomed to do, except 
when compelled by cold w^eather. Public bathhouses 
were now required to furnish separate apartments for 
men and women. Schools were being established in 
all the towns as fast as possible. Railways and ships 
added to the facilities for transmitting knowledge of 
the world and of the sciences. Newspapers were be- 
coming abundant, and were read by thousands. Still 
only a beginning had been made, and' many millions 
were yet steeped in ignorance and poverty. 

Having finished , his work in Yezo, Matsuda was 
commissioned by the government to make a tour of 
the northern interior of the main island on his way 
home, for the purpose of learning the real condition 
and needs of the people, and of enforcing any of the 
new regulations that might be neglected by the local 
officials. His armed guard of mounted police was to 



118 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

accompany him, and aid in impressing the people 
with the *iinp'ortance of abiding by the new regula- 
tions. 

Hundreds of foreign travelers annually visiting 
Japan, who simply touch at a few of the treaty ports, 
ride on the Tokaido, and visit a few shrines and 
famous places like Nikko and Ise, where they meet 
only the higher classes of people, return home, and, 
as far as they know, write truthfully of the beauties 
of Japanese scenery, the attractiveness of the women 
and the homes, and the charm of native life, with the 
wonderful advancements visible in the cities and 
larger towns. Hence their readers fancy that all 
Japan is a perfect Eden, where no sorrow ever comes, 
and no want is ever known. Alas, how little they 
know of the whole truth! For where there are a few 
hundred thousand of the enlightened there are many 
millions who are in the grossest spiritual darkness, 
and suffering with poverty and disease. To let them 
know that Ihey were now looked upon as "human" 
and that human responsibilities were placed upon 
them, wa^ the aim of the wise young ruler. Hence 
the mission of Matsuda through the interior. 

Although Matsuda was a samurai, and, as a soldier, 
had been over much of the country, he was not pre- 
pared for the scenes of distress that awaited him. 

Frequently as he and his party passed along the 
highway they were met by naked coolies pulling 
jinrikisha. Immediately upon sight of the officers 
the poor fellows would scud behind their vehicles, 
scramble into their clothes, then prostrate themselves 



A PAINFUL DISCOVERY. 119 

upon the ground in the utmost reverence until the 
dreaded uniforms were out of sight. This served to 
show that, while many were acquainted with the 
laws, there was not enough education of public sen- 
timent to enforce them. 

The peasants are strangely superstitious and im- 
provident, even reckless of their lives. The char- 
acter of the land and the phenomena of Nature fully 
explain their peculiar disposition. Many things con- 
spire to foster their superstitions and to weaken their 
confidence in the stability of human life, or even of 
Nature itself, and yet their refined natures are also a 
product of their environment. 

The picturesque beauty of the landscape is unsur- 
passed by that of any country in the world. Its blue 
skies, bluer lakes and bays, sparkling rivulets, snowy 
mountain crests, fleecy clouds, green hills, and peace- 
ful valleys, with a luxuriance of flowers everywhere, 
might account for the artistic taste, the gentleness, 
and the love for the beautiful that is almost univer- 
sal, even among the most degraded. Politeness and 
gentleness seem inborn, though their warriors have 
sometimes committed acts of the most savage cruelty. 

There are also natural causes for their supersti- 
tions. For in the midst of all the loveliness of 
Nature they are never free from her most dreaded 
terrors. The land is volcanic in its origin. If there 
is a bright green landscape in a peaceful valley, 
there is above it a dark frowning cliff that grinds its 
rocks with horrible sounds when in the throes of an 
earthquake, and often tumbles its boulders down 



120 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

upon the homes of the helpless inhabitants. From 
its dark caverns these awful groanings sound like an- 
gry demons at war, and hence the people believe that 
they are inhabited by evil spirits. Those snow-clad 
mountain peaks are liable at any time to explode and 
cover whole districts with mud, lava, and burning 
cinders. The solid earth often trembles beneath 
them, causing the leaves and the green fruit to tum- 
ble from the trees, pebbles to shoot out from the hill- 
sides, and the plains to open with awful rents, into 
which whole houses are sometimes swallowed up, 
though such severe shocks are not now so frequent. 
They believe that there is in the sea under the islands 
a great fish which shakes its tail when it gets angry, 
thus causing the earthquake disasters. 

Those who live by the sea and daily behold its 
varied beauty are subjected at the most unexpected 
times to the violence of great tidal waves that sweep 
away whole villages and roll inland for many miles 
over the plains. Again, as if Nature was not con- 
tent with destroying the foundations of security on 
land and ^a, great periodical typhoons and revolv- 
ing storms sweep over earth and ocean, leaving 
hideous wreck and ruin behind them. The people 
believe they are caused by angry wind imps that live 
in the clouds and bring disaster when displeased. 
Each natural disturbance is caused by its special 
demon that has the control over it. They are espe- 
cially afraid of the foxes that live in the dens of the 
mountains, believing that they are the incarnations 
of evil spirits. Immense artificial marshes are made 



A PAINFUL DISCO VEBY. 121 

for the cultivation of rice. These are covered with 
manure, then flooded with water. The land is soon 
covered with the stench of decaying matter, and at 
night the gases rise in bubbles to the surface, burst 
and float away in luminous balls like phantom Will- 
o'-the-wisps. These are believed to be the eyes of 
the fox spirits trying to allure people to follow them. 
Horrible stories are told to the children in the 
nursery about bad people who followed the lights 
and were lost or horribly mangled. A man followed 
the light into the woods one night. There he found 
a most beautiful woman, who walked before him and 
beckoned him on. Blinded by her beauty he fol- 
lowed, till suddenly she changed into a huge fox and 
seized him in strong hairy paws that crushed his 
"bones, while the long sharp teeth were gnashed in 
his face. When released he dragged himself home, 
b)ut was crippled and misshapened for life. Hence 
worship is paid to the fox, and shrines are erected to 
him. Enlightened people now forbid the nurses to 
tell such stories to their children, but they are still 
Ibelieved in by millions. 

Early one morning, while still in the mountains, 
Matsuda and his party were startled by a terrific ex- 
plosion that shook the earth so that they could 
scarcely stand. A vast cloud of smoke and vapor 
arising from a mountain several miles away showed 
that a sleeping volcano had exploded. The people 
were terror-stricken, as they had cause to be, but 
Matsuda, who was interested in examining into every- 
thing that pertained to rural life, rode to the scene 



122 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

with his men and climbed to the crater. Here they 
looked down upon an awful chaos of sulphurous va- 
pors, boiling mud and floating islands of soil that 
had fallen in with their burdens of trees and other 
vegetation. The whole cap of the mountain had 
been lifted bodily and blown into atoms, no one knew 
whither. One side of the crater had been blown 
through, and from it poured a river of mud as broad 
and deep as the "Father of Waters." At the foot of 
the mountain a river had been checked by the mov- 
ing solid wall of mud, and a lake was soon formed 
that began spreading over the land, flooding a whole 
village, or that part of it that was left; for scores of 
houses and their inmates were now buried in twenty 
feet of hot mud, and there was no need to dig for 
them, even if there had been time. In the region 
below where the waters were dammed the people had 
been cut off from the supply for their rice fields, and 
unless something could be done soon the new rice 
crop must perish in the scorching sun, and starva- 
tion would be inevitable. Seeing the danger to both 
sides, Matsuda employed a hundred men to cut a 
channel through the obstruction at one side where it 
was sufficiently cool and solid to be dug. 

As seen from the mountain- side, the desolation was 
complete. The objects that had not been destroyed 
were covered with a mantle of mud and ashes, the 
landscape preserving its natural features, but ghastly 
and resembling a corpse covered with the pall of 
death. As Matsuda stood on the precipice of the 
crater and peered into the seething abyss below, the 



A PAINFUL DISCO VERY. 123 

great mud wall broke away almost to his feet and 
tumbled into the boiling cauldron, causing the jelly- 
like sea to rise and fall with a quivering motion 
that shook the whole mountain and warned him to 
beat a hasty retreat. Instinctively he recalled the 
words of a song he had heard the foreign teacher sing 
to his children at home in Yokohama: 

"On Christ the solid Rock I stand, 
All other ground is sinking sand." 

Pagan that he was, and indifferent to Christianity, 
he nevertheless mused to himself, 

"When earth, sea and sky are unstable and never 
at rest, what a comfort it would be to a terror-stricken 
people to find a refuge that abides unmoved to all 
eternity amid all the wreck and dissolution of crea- 
tion. There may be such a foundation, but I 
doubt it." 

Leaving the scene of the disaster and proceeding 
southward, it was found that the landscape soon bore 
no trace of having ever suffered from above or be- 
neath. Streamlets sparkled in their mossy beds, or 
dashed in filmy spray from rocky cliffs; the woods 
were green and echoing with the songs of gayly 
plamed birds; children played, and all nature seemed 
to forget that there had ever been a cause for alarm. 

Fallen images of Buddha lay on their faces in the 
tall grass, many of them overgrown with lichen or 
moss, showing that the disestablished religion was 
losing power. 



124 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

Among the crowded villages at the foot of the hills 
the natural loveliness gave way to human squalor. 
In the rice swamp half -naked men and women toiled 
under the burning sun amid the miasmatic vapors, 
stirring the roots of the young rice with their feet 
and plucking up weeds with iron hooks. All kinds 
of insects stung their unprotected backs, while leeches 
fastened to their feet and legs. After all this toiling 
they could not afford to eat the rice they raised, but 
sold it and lived on millet seed and partially de- 
cayed dried fish. Matsuda had an opportunity of 
studying them more closely as a hard rain drove 
them in under a straw-thatched shed where he had 
stopped for shelter. The men only wore a waist- 
cloth, and the children nothing but a piece of metal 
tied around the neck and inscribed with their names. 
The women wore only a short skirt reaching from 
the waist to the knees, or short blue cotton trousers 
instead, while all had a white and blue cotton towel 
around their heads. The poisonous insects in the 
air and the myriads of voracious fleas that infested 
the dust had covered the exposed parts of their 
bodies with sores. Some were marked with "mogusa" 
€ones, relics of barbarous physicians. When any- 
thing ails one an opening is made in the skin of 
the back and a small taper inserted. This is light- 
ed and allowed to burn slowly until it is consumed 
beneath the skin, leaving a deep sore that is believed 
to cure almost all diseases. 

All around the shed were ditches filled with liquids 
that had seeped from the piles of rotthig manure. 



A PAINFUL BISCOVEBY. 125 

sending off poisonous fumes. Overhead fish were 
drying and decaying to a proper consistency for use. 
In one corner huddled shaggy knock-kneed pack- 
horses and pack-cows, the cow being used only as a 
beast of burden, since neither beef nor butter is 
known. 

Yet, notwithstanding their wretched condition, the 
people were as gentle as lambs, and as scrupulously 
polite to each other as the princes of a French 
court. The middle-aged women bore looks of stolid 
resignation, or longing hopelessness, though their 
manners were cheerful. On account of the wretched 
custom requiring married women to destroy all their 
charms, when they become homely, as all such do, 
they lose their husband's affections. Young concu- 
bines of attractive features are brought in to take 
their places, and life has no more joy for the poor 
cast-off wife. Many of them only continue to live for 
the sake of their children. The poor creature who 
has no little ones to love sometimes prefers the ob- 
livion of Nirvana to such a life. Then she puts on 
her best kimono, fills its pocket-like sleeves with 
stones and leaps from a precipice into a lake. The 
blue waters cover her secret, and no search is made. 
She is only one of millions, and perhaps her death is 
welcomed by others except herself. 

The morals of these remote districts still bore the 
marks of the old feudal age when lying and licen- 
tiousness abounded. Nearly all the literature had 
been putrid, and the whole moral system was corrupt 
to the core. 



126 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

With bitter mortification Matsuda prepared his re- 
port for the government. He had a justifiable pride 
in his country, but there was an open sore in peasant 
life that distressed him. What if a foreigner should 
penetrate into the interior ! He determined to urge 
immediate steps for reform, and for the elevation of 
his people, both intellectually and physically. 



^Ql. 



CHBIST IN THE FAMILY. 127 



CHAPTER XIII. 

CHRIST IN THE FAMILY. 



<< 



Q KAERI, KAERI{B.e has returned)!" exclaimed 
the pretty little maid as she rushed to the 
front of Matsuda's house and opened the sliding 
shoji. 

''Oya (Papa)!" cried Toki, joyfully. "It is his 
footstep." Sure enough, there he stood in his uni- 
form, and layiug aside his shoes on the porch. Toki 
knelt on the mat at the door to greet him. 

"Welcome home, most honorable husband! I am 
rejoiced at your safe return." 

' 'Arigato (Thanks) ! Right glad am I again to hang 
in your pretty eyes, my sweet wife," he replied, bow- 
ing low. 

Then came Kiku bounding in with Shiro, rolling 
from side to side and laughing over her shoulder. 
They received his warmest greeting, and, swinging 
to one hand while their mother held to the other 
sleeve, they followed him into the family room. 

"Most august mother, Ohayo [Good Morning)! How 
is the honorable health?" 

"I thank you lovingly, most noble son; it is excel- 
lent. My only discomfort has been anxiety for your 
safe return, " she replied, with a low bow. 

"Ah, you do me too much honor to worry about 
my unprofitable life. But now that I am come, we 



128 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

will lay aside all such feelings and be happy together 
again." 

While he was talking to his mother Toki was re- 
moving his swords and outer coat of uniform. 

"Now," she said, as she helped him on with hi& 
loose house robe and tied the soft silken girdle about 
his waist, "you can sit down in comfort while I bring 
refreshments." 

"Ah," said Matsuda as he took his seat on the soft 
cushion near his mother, "after all the fatigues of 
travel, and the distress of seeing poverty and misery 
for months, it is indeed a happy experience to b& 
again at home with the dear loved ones. " 

Chrysanthemum was fumbling with his coat that he 
had pulled off. ' 'Papa, what have you brought for us?" 

' 'I beg a thousand pardons, sweet children. Look 
in my sleeves and you will find cakes and fruits from 
Tokio for you and Shiro, and a roll of embroidered 
silks of the latest patterns to make oM for you all. " 

Toki now returned with tea and cakes on the little 
lacquer table, which she placed on the floor before 
him, them took her seat on a cushion near by. 

As he sipped his tea Matsuda inquired : 

"The boys, are they well, and do they progress at 
school?" 

"They are very well, indeed," replied Toki, "and 
are making most gratifying progress, so the teacher 
says, and they seem deeply interested. Kiku and I, 
though only women, have also made progress. We 
can speak with our teacher in English, and have 
learned many things that seemed to us wonderful." 



130 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

"That is indeed pleasant news, " replied her hus- 
band. "I am glad to learn of the zeal of the boys, 
and I never doubted but that the bright minds of my 
wife and daughter would delight in the new studies. 
You give me great pleasure. That is what all Japan 
needs to-day." 

A pretty blush suffused Toki' s cheeks as she con- 
tinued: 

' 'Let not my honored husband be angry when he 
hears other things that may not be so welcome, but 
we think that now is the time to tell all. Mother, 
Kiku and I have also learned the new religion. " 

A shade of annoyance was plainly visible on the 
princely features of the noble samurai, but he did 
not betray it by speech. It had been his hope and 
purpose to introduce western culture and material 
improvement in order to elevate the people and to 
supplant the old religious superstitions. Now, here 
in his own home, he found that the "western super- 
stition" had found access. He had hoped to see the 
country adopt the "practical advantages" and leave 
the religion out; it was not that which they needed, 
as far as he could see. But he had already found 
that, in spite of all opposition, the new religion was 
spreading, and it really seemed inseparable from the 
highest civilization. As it was only the women of 
his family that were inclined toward it, he thought 
it might be best to let them have their way. It 
would not hurt them, and women are prone to wor- 
ship something. All this flashed over his mind in a 
moment, and when he replied there was only sur- 
pi ise in his tone. 



CHBIST IN THE FAMILY. 131 

"What, the Okkasan too !" looking toward his 
mother. "I thought she was opposed to everything 
foreign." 

"So I was," replied she, "but having visited the 
most holy places and having spent several years in 
sincere devotion to our religion, I find that it can in 
no wise compare with that of the Christians. Theirs 
is full of hope and joy. The empty pomp of Nikko 
can not satisfy a soul that is about to depart from 
the world with nothing but Nirvana in view. I am 
supremely happy trusting in the promises of Christ. " 

"As yet," said Toki, "none of us have been bap- 
tized, nor made public profession, We preferred to 
have your honorable consent and to crave your au- 
gust presence." 

"My Peach-blossom," he replied, "far be it from 
me to oppose what the heart of yourself and the hon- 
orable mother would receive. If it is a pleasure to 
you it is well. To me it is nothing. Do as you like 
about the matter; only do not expect me to follow, 
nor trouble me hereafter with frequent allusions to 
it. I shall be engaged in the weightier matters of 
looking after the elevation of the masses. Religion 
suits women and children, and so long as it is harm- 
less, as yours seems to be, I shall not oppose it." 

So saying he lit his pipe, and Toki retired with. 

the tea tray. 

****** 

A little church of twelve native members had 
already been established within a few blocks of Mat- 
suda's home. On the following Sunday three new 



132 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

members were baptized. They were the Okkasan, 
Toki and Kiku. Matsuda and the two older boys 
looked on at a respectful distance. The candidates 
all seemed overflowing with new-found joy, but only 
the younger boy, Saburo, seemed impressed by the 
sight. To Ichiro and his father it was rather a pretty 
superstition. It pleased the women and it was all 
right. They observed it with pretty much the same 
condescension that they showed when watching Shiro 
frolic on the floor at night as he played with his ball. 
Ichiro was a very bright boy, now fast approaching 
manhood. His whole attention, like that of his fa- 
ther, was to be given to "practical" matters. 




LIFE IN THE CAPITAL. 133 



CHAPTER XIV. 

LIFE IN THE CAPITAL. 

/TT^ATSUDA had shown himself an indispensable 
/ I agent in the employment of the government, 
and so great was his zeal in wanting to do something 
for the elevation of the masses that he was employed 
again to act as general supervisor of some public 
works that were to be erected at various places 
throughout the interior. In order to do his work 
more thoroughly and to be accessible to his family at 
all times it became necessary for him to move them 
to Tokio. Here were good facilities for educating 
his children, and he placed the two boys, Ichiro and 
Saburo, in the Imperial University. The boys had 
the bright, quick minds for which their countrymen 
are noted, and learned eagerly all the branches that 
were taught at the time. 

The family found that it was very pleasant living 
in Tokio. The city is simply a vast collection of 
parks and villages. The great castle was erected at 
first and then by degrees villages began to grow up 
around it until there was one hundred and twenty- 
five of them, with an aggregate population of more 
than a million. The parks are so numerous and ex- 
tensive that many of the suburbs rather resemble 
encampments in the woods. There are fourteen hun- 
dred streets, all smooth and clean, though some of 



134 



IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 



them are rather monotonous. Horses are rarely ever 
seen, so that the children play in the streets without 
danger of being run over by the jinrikisha. 

The signs are interesting to one who has just 
learned their significance. Do you wish to find a 
drug store? Away down the street you will see a 
bag hanging out resembling the bag in which the 




A MuiU 111 Improvditent. 



apothecary of Dai Nippon compounds his prescrip- 
tions. That is a drug store. A great cuttle fish sig- 
nifies a kite store. Sake shops are conspicuous by 
their sign of a cypress trimmed into the shape of 
spheres. A large ball, one foot and a half in diame- 
ter, with a spike thrust through it, marks the con- 
fectioner's stand. 



LIFE IN THE CAPITAL. 135 

The castle rises up in the center of the city, sur- 
rounded by gloomy walls and broad deep moats of 
green water. In the Summer time these are covered 
with magnificent lotuses, and in the Winter with wild 
fowl. There are eleven miles of moats crossed by 
twenty-seven bridges that lead to gates in the tall 
and imposing ramparts. The stronghold of the Sho- 
guns was well-nigh impregnable. 

Within the walls are green swards, immense trees, 
and the ornamental houses of the nobility arranged 
in such an intricate labyrinth that a stranger wan- 
dering within would have a poor chance of finding 
his way out. Living in Tokio was more like old 
times at Osaka, for the city had not been so thor- 
oughly Europeanized as Yokohama. Still to go in 
the business part and see the immense public works, 
banks and railway stations, one might imagine him- 
self in Europe. 

Here the ancient pastimes of native life were still 
in vogue. Kiku, though now a good-sized girl, had 
never lost her interest in the great day for girls, 
Hina Matsuri, often called by foreigners "The Feast 
of Dolls." This always comes on the third day of the 
third month, and is the jolliest day of all the year 
for the girls. Little images (we call them dolls) that 
have been stored up in the family for generations are 
brought out and exhibited, together with many new 
ones bought on that day. Shops are open and many 
things are sold on the day of the Hina Matsuri that 
are never sold at any other time. Hundreds of little 
maidens cluster around the doll stores reaching 



136 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

eagerly for their prizes and each trying to hand in 
her change at the same time and often for the same 
doll. The dolls are then gayly dressed by fond 
mothers, who devote the whole day to the girls and 
their frolics. The streets are crowded with chatter- 
ing little maidens, their backs burdened with gayly 
appareled artificial babies. The doll vender is happy. 
H^ does a thriving business all day, selling more 
perhaps than he has sold in all the other days of the 
year together, 

Dolls are everywhere. Rows of them are threaded 
on cords and wreathed in different designs for deco- 
rations. Every house or lawn has its little tea party, 
where many miniature tables are set, presided over 
by dolls and laid with doll tea sets. 

This is a dreary, lonesome day for the boys, who 
mope through it in the best way they can, only sus- 
tained from utter dejection by the anticipation of the 
glorious "Fifth of the Fifth" (Fifth of May), when 
it will be their turn to transform earth into a boys' 
Paradise (Pandemonium for the sick neighbors). 
This is fehe Feast of Flags, in honor of Hachiman, 
god of war. Thousands of small boys fill the air 
with flying banners of every conceivable description, 
and blockade the streets as they gather in groups, 
spinning tops, riding wooden horses, forming pro- 
cessions of daimyo, and fighting the feudal wars over 
again in pantomime. 

Before each boy's home is planted a tall bamboo, 
from the top of which dangles a huge paper carp 
fish. If there are several boys in the family each is 



LIFE IN THE CAPITAL. 137 

represented by a fish flying and fluttering in the wind, 
exciting them to overcome all obstacles like the carp 
that leaps over waterfalls in his determined passage 
up stream. 

The "Seventh of the Seventh" is also a great day 
with the boys. For on that day they can all go ia 
swimming to their heart's content. On that day the 
evil sea monkey, that draws disobedient boys under 
the water when they run away and go in swimming 
without permission on other days, is chained, so they 
have nothing to fear, while papa or an older brother 
looks on at a safe distance to prevent accidents. 

There are many games and other ways of amuse- 
ment for the little ones in winter when they can not 
get out. At night they love to sit around the hibachi 
and listen to the ObaJisan (grandmother) tell wonder- 
ful stories of feudal times. They also have many 
fairy stories and ghost stories. Rip Van Winkle is 
familiar to them in person if not in name. One form 
of the story as told by the grandmother in the soft- 
ened glow of the andon to the eager listeners, repre- 
sents a young man named Taro out fishing. A storm 
came up and he prayed loudly to the god of the sea. 
Presently there appeared on the crest of a wave the 
sea god, sitting on the back of a tortoise. Crying to 
Taro he said, 

"Follow me and I will make you a happy man!" 

Taro obeyed and leaped upon the back of the divine 
tortoise which immediately bore his burden away into 
a most wonderful land. The roads were lined with 
fragrant trees, and flowers were everywhere. Silvery 



138 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

lakes sparkled with the finest fish, and the trees were 
laden with ripe golden fruit. They passed through 
an imposing gateway and entered a gorgeous palace. 
Here trains of courtiers and beautiful maidens met 
him and bore him into the king's palace, and to a 
heavenly room where beautiful girls and bright-robed 
servants waited on him and did his every bidding. 
Life was a continual round of feasts by day and music 
by night. Many of the people had heads of gold, 
coral, and pearl, so common were these treasures. 

After what he considered seven days of such un- 
alloyed bliss, he remembered his poor father and 
mother at home, who needed his aid in supplying the 
fish for their daily food, or who were now mourning 
him lost in the storm. He secured permission from 
the king to return home for a few days and see to 
their wants. On his departure the king presented 
him with a box which he told him never to open under 
any circumstances. Then the tortoise bore him to 
the shore near his father's house, where he left him. 
Taro looked around, but could see nothing that looked 
familiar." He inquired of a gray-headed old fisher- 
man for his father's hut. The old man told him that 
centuries ago there lived a family of that name, but 
now there was only their tombstone to tell that they 
had ever been. There was no trace of the house. 
Taro went to the graveyard in the valley, and by 
scraping the lichens from the stones found the graves 
of his parents. Then he felt sad, and yielded to a 
sudden desire to open the box. Immediately there 
flew out a purple vapor that enveloped him for a few 



LIFE IN THE CAPITAL. 139 

moments. A cold shiver ran over him, his legs be- 
came stiff and bent, his face wrinkled, his teeth 
dropped out, and he was an old man four centuries a 
survivor of his generation. The weight of his age 
was too great to be borne, and he died the next day. 

Another version that was of equal interest to the 
children, represented a pious woodcutter who found 
a fox in the woods and started to follow it. Soon he 
ran into an open space where a group of lovely girls 
sat playing checkers. Entranced by such a lovely 
sight in the midst of the forest, he stood still and 
gazed upon them for what seemed to him a few min- 
utes. When he turned to move away his limbs felt 
stiff, and his ax handle crumbled to powder in his 
hand. Stooping to pick up the ax he found that his 
shaven face of the morning had grown a long gray 
beard reaching almost to his feet. He stumbled 
down the hill to the village and inquired for his home. 
All seemed new. Crowds of children flocked around 
him, and dogs barked at his heels, while older people 
shook their heads and marveled at such a sight as 
they had never seen before. He asked for his wife 
and children, but there were no such names known 
there, and the people thought him a lunatic. An old 
woman finally said that she was the seventh genera- 
tion descended from the people he had mentioned. 
Whereupon the old man groaned in agony and re- 
turned to the woods, where he was never seen again. 

Stories of great heroes like Yoshitsune are also 
very popular with the children, and at the same time 
instruct them in the history of their country. 



140 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

In pleasant weather, which lasts a greater part of 
the year, the children play almost altogether out of 
doors. This open air freedom and the rigid etiquette 
in which they are drilled from babydom renders their 
intercourse singularly free from ill-mannered disputes 
and wrangles. But it is a mistake on the part of su- 
perficial writers to say that a Japanese child never 
fights, and that a baby is never known to cry. In the 
streets they are seen on their good behavior, but 
when confined together and placed under the same 
annoying circumstances as our children sometimes 
are, they as readily exhibit the effects of original sin. 
Yet, notwithstanding rare fits of naughtiness, com- 
mon to all children, the "Wee Ones of Japan" have 
a jolly time, and are of but little trouble to their 
parents. 

The festivities of Tokio and other cities were not 
confined to the children, for there are frequent occa- 
sions when older people have their "Great Days" 
too. One of the most popular of their festivals is the 
Chrysanthemum Exhibition. Every woman then has 
an opportunity to show herself an artist. The sacred 
flowers, in a rare state of perfection, due to long and 
patient cultivation, are brought and displayed in the 
most unimaginable ways. Houses and landscapes are 
made entirely of chrysanthemums. Then there are 
chrysanthemum streams, waterfalls and bridges 
crossed by chrysanthemum men and chrysanthemum 
horses, led by chrysanthemum bridles. All life 
seems to be reproduced in flowers that are still grow- 
ing and gaining in brightness. The forms of the va- 



LIFE IN THE CAPITAL. 141 

rious objects are made of woven wire, through the 
intestices of which the living plants are woven, and 
then the interior is filled with moist earth. 

The Empress took great interest in these exhibits, 
and did much to advance their success. Much credit 
is also due to this most excellent lady for her co- 
operation in many things that added to the pleasure 
and welfare of her subjects. She often visited the 
sick in person and ministered to their sufferings in a 
modest way that won their regard and sincere affec- 
tion. 




142 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 



CHAPTER XV. 

ELEVATING THE MASSES. 

rn ATSUDA had been commissioned to use all avail- 
l \ able foreign helps and suggestions in the pros- 
ecution of the government work in the interior. His 
chief work at first lay in founding schools and erect- 
ing school buildings. Many others were commis- 
sioned with the same work, and within a few years 
there was scarcely a hamlet that did not have its 
neat little government schoolhouse, constructed ac- 
cording to the latest designs, and furnished with 
patent folding desks, blackboards, charts and other 
modern conveniences. It was a pleasant sight to a 
foreign traveler to see these filled with bright-eyed 
children and to hear their sprightly answers in reci- 
tation. 

But improvements did not stop here. One good 
thing l§d to another. Government engineers came 
along and constructed roads through the hills and 
erected bridges over hitherto impassable streams. 
Within a few years the whole face of the country was 
changed. European hotels sprang up along the 
highways and in all the towns and villages of any 
importance. The postal service was perfected still 
more, modeled after that of the United States, and 
telegraph offices were to be found in some of the 
most remote places. Crime was suppressed by 



ELEVATING THE MASSES. 143 

prompt execution of the laws. Well ventilated and 
scrupulously clean prisons were erected. The pris- 
oners were not allowed to languish inside the walls 
during the day and plot new mischief, but were put 
out to work, where, by honest labor under God s pure 
open sky, they might improve both body and mind. 
They were also in better frame of mind to consider 
moral and religious subjects. Mr. Neesima, after- 
wards founder of the Doshisha University, once gave 
a copy of the New Testament to a prison official, who 
in turn gave it to a well-educated prisoner convicted 
of manslaughter. The latter became interested in 
the "New Way," and taught it to his fellow prison- 
ers. Afterwards a fire broke out that consumed the 
building. When the doors were opened the prison- 
ers, instead of escaping, as they could have done, 
remained to help extinguish the flames, then returned 
to their work as usual. This caused great surprise, 
for such a thing had never been heard of before. 
When it was learned that it was on account of the 
teachings of the New Testament by the scholar, he 
was at once pardoned and set at liberty. He did not 
leave, however, but remained to teach the "New 
Way" to others. 

No little of the material prosperity, as well as 
moral improvement, was due to faithful Christian 
teachers in the employment of the government. 
They founded a system of scientific education in 
many communities, and planted Christian churches, 
so that many were both enlightened intellectually, 

and turned unto the Lord in their hearts. 
9 



144 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

Missionaries of all denominations now went by per- 
mission of the government into all parts of the land, 
and established schools and churches in every prov- 
ince, till it seemed to the sanguine workers that a 
complete conquest of the country for Christ was not 
far off. Native converts showed themselves enthu- 
siastic and able workers. One peculiar feature of the 
work soon became apparent, something that has never 
been known before in any mission field of the world. 
Most of the converts were men, and largely from the 
more intelligent classes. Forty per cent of the na- 
tive Christians to-day are from the samurai classes. 
These have always favored western ideas, while the 
masses of the people are still conservative, many of 
them opposed to foreign civilization so suddenly 
thrust upon them, and still devout adherents of the 
old religions. The failure of the women to be con- 
verted is largely due to their inaccessibility. They 
are not allowed to attend places where large crowds 
are congregated, and can only be reached by the fe- 
male workers going to their homes. 

One ^reat need soon became apparent. The evan- 
gelistic work must be done mainly by natives, for 
many of the people in the interior did not understand 
the foreigner, and a few still hated him as "the for- 
eign devil," and would not listen to a missionary, at 
least, not with the same degree of attention and ear- 
nestness that they showed to one of their own nation, 
who had passed from darkness unto light, and who 
could tell better than any one else the effects of re- 
ligion in his own soul. But mere conversion was not 



ELEVATING THE 31 ASSES. U5 

sufficient training for those who had knotty questions 
to answer before intelligent audiences, so the native 
preachers soon began with their quick minds to 
evolve a system of theology out of their former Bud- 
dhistic subsoil, with results that were not always in 
accordance with orthodoxy. It was necessary for 
them to be more thoroughly and accurately instruct- 
ed, but it was almost impossible to do it at home. 
Some who could afford it attended the great universi- 
ties in Europe and America, but there were many 
zealous workers who could not undertake such an ex- 
pensive course. Theological departments were added 
to the Christian schools in order to supply this lack 
as far as possible, but still better equipped institu- 
tions are needed for the training of native workers. 
Many of the Christian schools can not obtain ortho- 
dox teachers, but have to take those that are trained 
in the government schools, many of which are skep- 
tical. The brightest of the Japanese have seen the 
folly of Shinto and Buddhism, and therefore con- 
clude that all religion is but superstition, which must 
vanish before the light of scientific education. 

There were many others who cared nothing for any 
religion, but, seeing the results of Christianity, were 
in favor of making it the State Religion as a matter 
of policy. Thousands stood ready to enter the^ 
churches if they coukl only be allowed to "adopt'*' 
Christianity, and put it on in outward form as they 
had done Romanism in the Sixteenth Century. The 
great trouble always has been to reach the hearts and 
consciences of those who have been trained under 

9 



146 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBI8E. 

Buddhism and Confucianism, and who are just break- 
ing away from the old paths. Some missionaries 
have thought that it might be a good policy to com- 
promise and leave off some of our most objectionable 
dogmas. Hence they have preached an uninspired 
Gospel of a Christ who was not divine. But they 
made a fatal mistake. Only an infallible Bible and a 
Divine Saviour, who is also a Judge, can break those 
rationalistic hearts and satisfy those craving minds. 
If we are simply to preach morals, they have a code 
of morals already that would condemn the best of us. 
If we simply proclaim a great human teacher, they 
follow one who existed before ours, and whose ad- 
herents number one- third of the population of the 
world. 

Medical Missions at first were a great factor for 
good in Japan. A physician can reach many whom a 
preacher could never approach. The skill and tender 
regard of the Christian doctors aided many to under- 
stand in a realistic sense the love and compassion of 
the Great Physician. Native physicians have now 
become proficient and have taken the place of foreign 
skill, which is well. Japan has too much national 
pride and independence of spirit to rely longer than 
is necessary upon others for help. 

Foreign teachers were also dispensed with as native 
scholars became competent to take up their work and 
complete it. The sons of the nobility who attend' d 
the great foreign universities stood at the head with 
the brightest of American and European intellects, 
sometimes surpassing them in special branches, such 



ELEVATING THE MASSES. 147 

as the difficult and ancient Oriental languages. The 
metaphysical abstractions of Herbert Spencer and the 
vague theories of German rationalists, so difficult and 
dry to our students, were greedily learned and adopt- 
ed by them. Such things alone seemed sufficiently 
weighty to satisfy, for a while at least, the abnormal 
cravings of intellects naturally bright, but for ages 
imprisoned. 

At Kioto in 1875 was founded by Mr. Neesima the 
Doshib-ha College, destined to do a great work in the 
enlightenment of the native youth. Joseph Hardy 
Neesima is a central figure in the history of Japanese 
Christianity. He was ten years old when Perry land- 
ed, and at a very early age became interested in the 
advancement of his country. He gave up Shinto 
when a boy, and seeing in a Chinese tract the words, 
' "In the beginning God created the heavens and the 
earth," he said, "That is the God I am seeking." He 
escaped from Japan and found his way to America, 
where he became converted, and received a thorough 
theological education. He was afterwards pardoned 
by the government for leaving the country, an offense 
punishable with death, and burning with zeal, he re- 
turned to Kioto, where in 1875 he founded Doshisha 
College. In 188.6 he enlarged the college to the rank 
of a University, letting it be known that he intended 
it to be strictly a Christian institution. With this un- 
derstanding he received from Japanese statesmen 
160,000, and from an American gentleman |100,000. 
In 1889 Amherst College honored him with the degree 
of LL.D. His school grew from the beginning, hav- 



148 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 

ing a large per cent, of its students preparing for 
missionary work. There are often one hundred con- 
versions a year among the students. It is missionary 
in the truest sense of the word. Japanese Christians 
owe much to this able and wise man. He died in 
1890, mourned by all classes. A special tabernacle 
had to be erected to hold the thousands who attended 
his funeral. A large banner was borne by friends 
from Tokio inscribed with his own words, "Free 
Education and Self-governing Churches, if 
These Go Together the Country Will Stand 
FOR All Generations." Another banner was in- 
scribed, "From the Buddhists of Osaka." 




OFF FOB HABVABD.' 149 



CHAPTER XVI. 

OFF FOR HARVARD. 

ICHIRO applied himself so diligently that he com- 
pleted the course at the University in an incred- 
ibly short time. It was now his great ambition to go 
to America and attend Harvard for a special course 
as so many of his acquaintances were doing. This 
would involve heavy expense, and it did not seem 
possible for his father to send him. Matsuda's sal- 
ary, though liberal, had barely supported his family, 
and he saw no way of adding enough to his income 
to risk such a venture. It was a great disappoint- 
ment to him and to the whole family, for Ichiro had 
shown real brilliancy of intellect, and only lacked 
thorough training to become one of the lights of the 
Empire. During the summer he accompanied his 
father on a tour of the interior preparatory to learn- 
ing something of the government work so that he 
might secure a position as engineer. While they were 
gone the rest of the family got together and planned 
a loving conspiracy. None of them were willing for 
Ichiro to fail in his heart's desire for a thorough ed- 
ucation, so they planned how they might send him. 
Grandmother, though now old and, as she thought, 
useless, still had a quick mind. She proposed to 
show Kiku how to do the housekeeping and thus al- 
low Toki to give more of her time to literature and 



150 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

art. Toki had recently been contributing articles to 
a leading journal in Tokio, and had just received a 
flattering offer for others at a good price. She was 
also expert with the brush, and had illustrated sev- 
eral articles. By this way she recognized that she 
could add considerably to the family income. Saburo 
now spoke up and said that he had been offered a po- 
sition as tutor to some classes in the University which 
would pay for his own tuition. He had not accepted 
because it would cause him to have to remain a year 
or two longer. 

"However," he said, "if by doing so I can help 
brother I am more than willing, and will accept the 
offer in the morning. " 

"There's my good boy !" exclaimed his mother. 
"You shall never lose by your generosity." 

When Ichiro returned his mother related to him 
and his father, as they sat at tea, what had been 
done. He was almost overcome with delight, and 
was so profuse in his thanks that they could never 
regret having undertaken so much for him. Mat- 
suda at* first seemed skeptical as to the practicability 
of the scheme, but they won him over and the ar- 
rangements began to be made. 

It should have been mentioned that before this 
time Ichiro had become altogether too important a 
character to be known simply as ' 'Number One, " as 
his name signified, and he was given a new name ac- 
cording to the prevailing custom. Some young men 
formerly changed their names several times, but the 
law now forbids so many changes. Ichiro became 



OFF FOB HARVARD. 151 

Jiro (Je6-ro), and as such we shall henceforth know 
him. As for Saburo, he was still content to be 
known as "Number Three." 

AH was now bustle and activity in the family. Jiro 
must have American clothes, and trunks and valises 
to pack them in. Mrs. Green, the wife of the pastor, 
to whose church the women of the family now be- 
longed, was of great assistance in suggesting what 
would be necessary, and assisting in the prepara- 
tions. She herself had come from New England, 
and had so many things to tell about Boston and Cam- 
bridge that the family almost felt that they were ac- 
quainted with the people with whom Jiro would be 
associated. 

Jiro himself practiced eating with a knife and fork 
instead of the national chopsticks. He had become 
somewhat accustomed to American food at the hotels, 
and spoke the English language fluently. So he 
would neither suffer embarrassment on account of a 
lack of knowledge on those points nor be subject to 
delay in his studies while learning such things. 

At last the day of his departure arrived. After 
separating from the family amid many tears and 
prayers for his welfare, he took the train for Yoko- 
hama, where he found the great floating city, capa- 
ble of transporting twelve hundred persons, ready at 
the wharf to bear him away to that distant land 
whence the immortal Perry had come with his won- 
derful fleet, and which is the El Dorado of every 
Japanese boy's dreams. It was with a beating heart 
that he mounted the deck and prepared to look for 



152 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

the last time for several years upon his native land, 
still "The Land of the Sunrise." A few years ago 
such a trip was forbidden on penalty of death. Now 
any one was allowed to go to America if he was only 
able to do so. There were several of his acquaint- 
ances on board, some for Harvard and some for Yale. 
So they had a pleasant time during the two weeks' 
voyage. 

Two weeks after Jiro sailed Toki received a card 
written in mid-ocean and mailed on a passing steam- 
er, signifying that he was safe and well so far. Two 
weeks more and another announced his safe arrival 
in San Francisco, and promised a long letter so soon 
as he should become settled at College and acquaint- 
ed with his surroundings. 

From time to time the family heard of his gratify- 
ing progress and felt more than repaid for all that 
they had sacrificed for him. He often wrote about 
the strange customs that he saw. He said that he had 
been with some of the students to call on some young 
ladies, a thing that seems an impossibility to a Jap- 
anese mind. A few visits to such charming creatures, 
however, removed his scruples and he learned to en- 
joy their society. It still seemed strange to him, 
though, that young people could marry against their 
parents' will. Yet young Japan is fast learning, and 
there is no telling what Jiro himself will do some 
day. 

It had been Toki's one prayer in sending Jiro 
abroad that in Christian America he might see the 
power of Christianity in its effects upon the people 



OFF FOB HABVABD. 153 

and become so influenced by it that he would be led 
to embrace it. She did not realize that America was 
different from Japan, not having one or two religions 
to which everybody must belong, but a country 
where all religions are taught, and where many have 
no religion at all. Judge of her bitter disappoint- 
ment when she read the following paragraph in one 
of Jiro's letters: 

' 'America is not so much Christian after all. There 
seems to me to be as much wickedness here as in Japan. 
Very few people, except preachers, women and chil- 
dren, pay much attention to religion. Sunday is not 
kept as strictly as it is in Japan. Trains, street cars 
and saloons do their greatest business on Sunday. 
Monday morning papers are full of accounts of 
crimes committed by drunken men who were idle on 
Sunday and have nothing to do but beat their wives 
and fight over the gambling tables. I also find that 
the people that are religious worship many gods. I 
have been to several churches of different denomina- 
tions as a matter of curiosity, and each denounces all 
the others. If they worshiped the same God it would 
not be so. I care not to disturb your faith, but this 
thing called religion seems to me to be a poor thing 
as compared with intellectual pursuits." 

This wrankled like a poisoned arrow in the heart 
of the devoted mother. After all her planning, 
when she honestly thought in the fear of God that 
she was doing the best for her boy, it now seemed 
that she could not have made a greater mistake. She 
concealed that part of the letter from the rest of the 
family and carried her distress to Mrs. Green, who 
had so often helped and comforted her before. 



154 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

"Ah," said the good woman when she had read the 
letter, ' 'he is looking at things altogether from his own 
standpoint. Many of the things he speaks of are, in 
a sense, true, but Christianity is not responsible for 
them. There are many wicked people in America 
who come from all parts of the world. Jiro has 
not yet considered the other side. There has been 
much done by Christians that he must acknowledge 
has been of untold benefit to the world. He is bright 
and will come all right yet. This is only a superfi- 
cial observation. Pray for him and trust God to dO' 
what is best." 

An hour's conversation with this consecrated and 
sensible woman reassured the anxious mother, and 
she returned home with a lighter heart, though still 
serious. She kept her thoughts to herself. She did 
not wi-sh to distress the others who had so lovingly 
entered into her plans. Perhaps all would come 
right yet. It was not worth while to mention the 
matter to Matsuda, for he saw things as Jiro did, and 
could not have oifered any sympathy or showed any 
concern. He rejoiced to learn that his son was stand- 
ing on equal footing with the brightest students in 
America who were with him in college, and that was 
all he cared about, provided, of course, that Jiro did 
not fall into vicious habits. He wanted both his 
morals and his manners to be perfect, and cautioned 
him on that subject whenever he wrote. Matsuda's 
sole concern was for the Emperor and the intellectual 
elevation of his people. 



AFTER FOUB YEAB8. ' 155 



CHAPTER XVII. 

AFTER FOUR YEARS. 

T^IME has made its changes in the family we left at 
^^ Tokio. The aged grandmother has been laid to 
rest ; not the rest of Nirvana for which she once 
longed, but the sleep in Jesus from which she will 
awake to behold the righteousness of her Lord and 
dwell forever with God and his saints. Bro. Green 
conducted tlie funeral, and prayed that her son and 
grandson might follow her example. Matsuda was 
visibly affected, but as yet he did not realize his need 
and the power of the Gospel. He was a man of af- 
fairs. 

Saburo is now associate editor of a large daily paper 
and an active worker in the church and the missions 
of the capital. 

Shiro is almost grown, well advanced in his classes, 
and a devout Christian worker. It is his great aim 
to be a minister of the Gospel. He sees the need of 
his countrymen and longs to do something for them. 
They are grasping, like his own father, for the results 
of Christianity without first becoming possessed of the 
power that it gives to elevate and reform mankind. 
He yearns for a thorough education to fit him for his 
great life work. But the resources of the family have 
been exhausted in supporting Jiro in America, so that 
he can not hope to go there himself for many years. 



156 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

He has very often thought that if some wealthy gen- 
erous-minded American knew how he longed for an 
education he would open the way. There must be an 
abundance of everything in America. He had just 
read that the cost of firing one of their great guns 
one time would support tivo missionaries in Japan for a 
whole year. 

Kiku is now an accomplished young lady and as 
well deserving the name of the royal flower, "Chrys- 
anthemum," as when her mother gave it to her in in- 
fancy. She has the beauty of her mother's youth 
with the added charm of Christian graces. She is 
active in every good work, full of love for her coun- 
try, and has before her the prospect of great useful- 
ness. 

As for Toki, time has left its mark on her face also, 
but has not destroyed its attractiveness. She is 
counting the days till the great ship shall land bring- 
ing her boy again to her arms. How have the four 
years affected him? Will he be a nobler, better son? 
Will he be more susceptible to religious influence, or 
further away from it? Such thoughts as these daily 
arose in her head, and she prayed that he might soon 
be led to Christ. 

At last the welcome day arrived, and with it came 
Jiro. He wore a nobby suit of American clothes, a 
curled American mustache, twirled a cane, and bore 
himself with a free American air. He had not fully 
outgrown the national etiquette and inborn respect 
for his parents, but outwardly showed them polite 
attention, and seemed sincerely glad to be back in his 



AFTEB FOUB YEARS. 



157 



own beautiful country and happy home. How hand- 
some and attractive he looked, and how proud they 
all were of him ! He gave interesting accounts of his 




Kiku. 
(Chrysanthemum.) 

voyage and discussed intelligently the people and 
countries that he had seen. 

Within a few days, however, his generous younger 



158 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 

brothers found that a wall had grown up between 
them and him. He was removed into an entirely dif- 
ferent sphere. Henceforth they could never be affec- 
tionate brothers again. They must now follow dif- 
ferent channels of life. In the new, varied and i:ush- 
ing Japan this is not hard to do; but the hardest 
thing for them was to have sacrificed the best part of 
youth for him, and to have received no better return. 
Their brother no longer cared for them. Kiku tried 
to enlist him in some religious reading one day, but 
he replied by quoting a whole page from Herbert 
Spencer that frightened her by its meaningless 
jargon. 

"That is my religion," he said. "In spiritual mat- 
ters wise men are agnostics." 

The gentle girl, who knew nothing of what he had 
writter to her mother on a former occasion, was 
stunned by surprise and inexpressible grief. When 
she related this interview to her mother the latter 
was also distressed, but wisely answered, 

"My dear, I feel that we have done what was best 
as far as we could judge. Why it all has resulted so 
I can not say. We must try to show to your brother 
by Christian example and loving lives that religion is 
better than philosophy. With God's help we may at 
last lead him to see the better way. Would that your 
father had set him a Christian example. " 

Matsuda, however, was thoroughly pleased with his 
son's advancement, and with his superiority to the 
notions of women and children. He lost no time in 
securing for him a government position of good sal- 



AFTER FOUR YFARS. 159 

ary and light work so that he could continue intel- 
lectual pursuits. 

****** 

Shortly after this Matsuda was in a railway wreck 
in which he received a broken leg. It was in the hot 
season and complications set up that confined him to 
his bed for several months. Dr. Green, who was also 
a skilled surgeon, treated him and won his regard, 
both by his wonderful skill and by his disinterested 
kindness. Matsuda often wondered at receiving so 
much sincere attention, when the bill for services 
was only nominal. It certainly was not for money. 
The Doctor often sat with him after his professional 
duties were over, engaging him in intelligent conver- 
sation and trying to cheer him, since he felt despond- 
ent at losing so much time. Finally, one day, Mat- 
suda asked, 

"Doctor, why is it that you show so much interest 
In me when I have never done anything for you, not 
even attending your church?" 

"I am only trying to follow my Master," replied 
the good man. ' 'He, the Great Physician, loved and 
served even his worst enemies.' I wish you would 
read his life in the New Testament and become con- 
vinced that He is what you need." The Doctor was 
glad of this opportunity to speak a word without in- 
truding, knowing his patient's feelings before in re- 
gard to religion. Matsuda felt that it would be 
politeness to accept his suggestion, besides, he had 
some little curiosity to see the insignificant little 
book that had seemed such a comfort to his mother 



160 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

and wife. During his sickness he had noticed, as 
never before, the difference between his own Chris- 
tian family and those of many of his acquaintances 
with whom he had stopped. His duties for the past 
few years had not allowed him to be at home niuch^ 
and he had not fully appreciated the comfort and 
peace of a Christian life. He thought over it after 
the Doctor had gone. Perhaps, after all, Christianity 
had benefited his home. When his wife came in he 
delighted her by saying: 

"Toki, I wish you would bring me the Testament 
that seems to be so entertaining to you. I thought 
I would read a little, as I can do nothing else." 

"With the greatest pleasure, honored husband," 
she replied. "I have often wished that I might ask 
you to read it, but you made me promise not to press. 
you in the matter of religion. " 

She brought it to him and then went out with a 
prayer in her heart that God might lead him to the 
light. If only Jiro would read it too ! 

That night when Matsuda read the evening paper 
he was greatly impressed by a sensible article from 
his own son, Saburo, entitled, "Christ, the Hope of 
Japan." Day by day he read the New Testament 
with increasing interest. The family could see that 
he was attracted, and wisely forbore to mention the 
matter till he had formed his own conclusions.- When 
the good Doctor came in a few days after he found 
his patient filled with enthusiasm. 

"Eureka P^ Matsuda exclaimed. "What a fool I 
have been. Giving my best time and energies to the: 



AFTER FOUB YEARS. 161 

elevation of my people, depending on my personal 
theories, when here is the problem solved. Hence- 
forth I am a Christian. Such wonderful wisdom, 
such a beneficent spirit! Confucius and Buddha are 
nowhere. Doctor, why has not this been adopted by 
every government and practiced by every nation?" 

"Ah," replied the Doctor, "all have not heard, and 
then the carnal heart does not receive the things of 
the Gospel. I am rejoiced to know that the Lord 
has revealed himself to you." 

It was amid general rejoicing that the family 
learned of Matsuda's decision, and the only thought 
now was. How would it affect Jiro? When the young 
man returned that evening he went as usual to his 
father's room, and kneeling by his couch saluted him 
and inquired about his health. 

"I am happy to say that I am improving rapidly," 
replied Matsuda. "Thanks to the patient care of 
your mother and sister, and the skillful treatment of 
the good Doctor." 

"I am happy to hear you speak so," said Jiro. 
"Great Japan can ill afford to spare for so long a 
time the services of such an important officer as you 
have shown yourself." 

Then noticing the New Testament at his father's, 
side, he looked surprised and said: 

"Can it be possible that sickness has so oppressed 
my princely father that he can find entertainment inn 
the book of the hated Yasu religion?" 

"Indeed," replied Matsuda. "I have found this 
little book most helpful and instructive. I firmly be- 



162 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

lieve that it contains the principles which alone can 
make of Japan a great nation like her western neigh- 
bors. I only regret that I have not learned it sooner, 
I mean to advocate Christianity from now henceforth. 
I wish you, too, my son, would read the little book 
and at least examine into the matter. " 

A look of surprised pity overspread the fine feat- 
ures of the young man as his father spoke. He re- 
plied with a polite smile scarcely concealing con- 
tempt, 

"The honored father has a right to do as he 
pleases. If you prefer this new religion to those 
which are older and well tried it is well. There is 
nothing in any of them to satisfy an ambitious nature. 
Science is the highest form of religion. Only Meta- 
physics can furnish food for the highest intellects, 
such as Japan is now producing. I beg pardon for 
differing, but I think you have made a mistake. Jap- 
an can never be reached in that way. She has 
passed beyond the stage of superstition and fable. " 

Toki and Kiku now appeared with the tea, and 
Matsuda, seeing that it was useless to reason the sub- 
ject, and not wishing to distress them, allowed it to 
drop for the time. 



A NEW MOVEMENT. 163 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

A NEW MOVEMENT OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE. 

AFTER tea Jiro lit a cigarette and strolled across 
/ the park to a favorite tea garden where he was 
in the habit of spending his evenings in company with 
a number of his friends and former schoolmates, 
some of whom had been to Harvard and Yale. 

Pretty black-eyed girls brought in tiny cups of 
straw-colored tea on little lacquer tables, then pre- 
pared the room for the usual entertainment. The 
twang of the samisen (guitar) could be heard already 
in an adjoining room accompanied by soft mouse-like 
voices. Soon the shoji were drawn back and a group 
of geisha entered and arranged themselves on the 
mats. They were elegantly dressed, 
sweet-faced little creatures whose sole 
business was to entertain, and usually 
to corrupt young men. One played the 
samisen while the others went through 
various motions called dancing though 
they did not use their feet. The young 
men sat, alternately smoking, eating 
bonbons and drinking tea, while they 
watched in a listless manner the gay 
little creatures wearing themselves 
out in their efforts to please. 
Qiri and Samisen. After that they stroUed out through 




164 IN THE LAND OF THE SVNBISE. 

the lovely gardens lighted by hundreds of many- 
colored paper lanterns, and in hearing of the sounds of 
revelry from the various houses around them. There, 
at mid-night, amid such surroundings, and after such 
an evening's preparation, they formed plans for the 
elevation (?) of their country. They had often 
spoken together about the alarming tendencies of 
the people to become enthralled again by Buddhism, 
or, what was worse, the Yasu religion, and now they 
felt that something must be done at once. Jiro was 
the first to speak. 

"Boys," said he, "you all know how I stand on this 
great question of our country's elevation. I believe 
that only mental enlightenment and material improve- 
ments can accomplish the work. Hitherto I have not 
thought it advisable to push the matter, but to-night 
I have learned astonishing news that prompts me to 
urge immediate action. My father, whom we all 
considered proof against all such superstition, has 
actually adopted the hated Jesus Doctrine. " 

'■'Naruliodor exclaimed the others in one breath. 

"Yes, "" continued Jiro, "he proposes to give his 
whole time to the work of spreading abroad a re- 
ligion, such as plunged our country into such a state 
of disorder over two hundred years ago, and from 
which she has never recovered. I feel that when 
such men as he are being seduced by it that it is 
time for those who have the welfare of the country 
at heart, to act, and that in a decided way." 

"Ditto!" exclaimed Ichitaro, one of his chums. 
"You have struck it right. We must do something. 



A NEW MOVEMENT. 



165 



I see from to-day's paper that the Buddhists are 
also making a last determined effort to enslave us. 
They have now over fifty thousand priests, and are 
building a temple to cost eleven million dollars, all 
of which must come from the pockets of people too 
poor to eat the very rice that they raise. Some of 
the Buddhists are also . adopting Christian methods, 
such as Sunday-schools, preaching, circulating liter- 
ature, holding prayer-meetings; and one sect has 
gone so far in imitation of our 
common enemy as to proclaim 
salvation through simple faith in 
Amida Butsu, whatever they may 
mean by such an abstraction. 
Anything to keep the people 
duped and under the power of the 
priests and preachers! Some- 
thing must be done," 

"Well, what shall it be?" in- 
quired a third. 

"I move," said Jiro, "that we 
here and now organize a society 
for the diffusing of scientific 
knowledge. We will have nothing special to say 
against any religion, since that would only fan the 
flame of fanaticism, but the diffusing of knowledge 
will stop them all." 

"I second the motion!" exclaimed Ichitaro. 

Thus out there under the cryptomeria trees at mid- 
night these young patriots (?) established an institu- 
tion called the S. S. S. (Spencerean Scientific Soci- 




PrieM and Assistant. 



166 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

ety). Jiro was made President and Ichitaro Secre- 
tary. By the next night they had secured a place of 
meeting, and twenty new members were enrolled. 
None were eligible to membership except men of the 
highest literary and scientific attainments, but, to 
show how plentiful these were by now, the Society 
had a hundred members by the end of the month. 
Several young men from Yokohama came up on the 
train once a week to the weekly public exercises. 
They now owned a magnificent club-room, and had 
engaged a number of geisha to play for their special 
entertainment between the reading of the learned 
essays. A monthly magazine was published called 
"The Spencerean Review," which contained the best 
essays of the Society and the results of the latest 
scientific investigation. In this way they did a good 
work in developing the minds of the people at large, 
though nothing was said about God nor religion of 
any kind. Such things were beneath notice. 

To the tears of his sister and mother and the 
entreaties of his father and brothers Jiro was equally 
deaf. He knew they meant well, and he loved them, 
but they could not understand his great work, so that 
it was useless to reason with him. He was at home 
very little now. He came in from the office at night, 
■^nd as soon as he had tea he went to the club rooms. 

The following paragraph in the Spencerean He- 
^ieW came like an earthquake shock to the anxious 
family who had never received any intimation of such 
a thing, and which they could scarcely believe "possi- 
^^e after what Jiro had written once before: 



A NEW MOVEMENT. leY 

"We are happy to announce the marriage in September of 
our popular and learned President, Mr. Jiro Kimura, to Miss 
Jeanette Anderson, of Boston, Mass., (J. S. A. It is now not an 
uncommon thing for intelligent young American and English 
ladies to marry Japanese noblemen. We trust that this union 
may be a happy one, and that it may add to the usefulness of 
our already efficient friend." 

"Alas !" thought the aggrieved parents, "in some 
respects our country is growing too fast. We never 
thought it possible that it could come to this. " Even 
then as they looked across the street they saw a girl 
in hybrid costume of both native and foreign style, 
actually leaning over the gate simpering, chewing 
gum, and talking ivitli a young man! It was well for 
Grandmother Kimura that she was at rest, for she 
could never have survived such a shock as this. 
Again Toki went to Mrs. Green for comfort and ad- 
vice. 

"This is indeed a serious case," said the good 
woman. "But we must try to make the best of it. 
It may be God's way of bringing your gifted son to 
see the true way. It is to be hoped that the young 
lady is a true Christian woman and not a mere ad- 
venturess. If she comes with the right motive she 
will be of great assistance in our work. If not, we 
must hope and pray for the best. Look on the 
bright side. I have been a follower of the Lord 
longer than you have, and I know 'He doeth all 
things well.' " 

Thus reassured Toki made no remonstrances, and 
there was no family "scene," as Jiro naturally ex- 



168 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

pected there would be. He was surprised at the 
spirit with which they all entered into the prepara- 
tions for the event. His mother and sister packed 
his valise and dismissed him with their prayers when 
he started again on his journey across the waters. 
His father had also become reconciled, and bade him 
good-bye as affectionately as before. Then they all 
waited, hoping and praying that good might come of 
it all. 




THUJ LIGHT GEO WH BBIGRTEB. 169 



CHAPTER XIX. 

THE LIGHT GROWS BRIGHTER. 

TOKI had one happy event to look forward to dur- 
ing Jiro's absence, and that was her husband's 
baptism. For she had no doubt that as soon as he 
was able he would join the church and be baptized. 
But it seemed that he had no such intentions, for as 
soon as he was able to travel he arranged for a tour 
through the districts where he had labored as gov- 
ernment agent. He would carry a supply of Testa- 
ments, employ colporteurs and endeavor to intro- 
duce the study of the Bible into the schools as the 
besf means of making good citizens. Before he left, 
Toki ventured to inquire if he did not intend to join 
the church. But he replied that he would not wait 
for that now. He was anxious to get to see the 
school authorities before the next term opened, and 
to employ a large number of agents to carry out the 
work of distributing Bibles in the rural districts. 
He did not feel that it was necessary to join the 
church; he might have a wider influence if he did 
not. At some other time he might. 

These and other remarks led Toki to fear that he 
had never been converted. She feared that he was 
grasping after the husk, while failing to secure the 
kernel of Christianity, a tendency then and now prev- 
alent in Japan. 



170 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

Before his departure Matsnda busied himself visit- 
ing the various government officials and consulting 
with them about his proposed plan. He was anxious 
to get Christianity adopted at once as the State Re- 
ligion. Count Ito, the Prime Minister, was highly- 
pleased with the idea, and promised to do all in his 
power to bring his plans to perfection. The matter 
of adopting Christianity as a State Religion now 
became a subject of discussion. But as soon as the pa- 
pers published the fact that such a thing was antici- 
pated there was a general protest from the mission- 
aries, the very ones of all others from whom Matsuda 
expected support. He had gone to Kioto to place 
Shiro in the Doshisha,* and was there when he heard 
of the opposition of the missionaries. In great sur- 
prise he inquired of Mr. Neesima why it was that 
they did not favor it. That godly man replied, 

' 'The Christian religion is not a mere form or a, 
code like Buddhism or Shinto. It is not a matter of 
legislation, but is to be- secured only by personal re- 
pentance and faith. A new birth is necessary, and 
that conies not by any sovereign's order, but through 
the Holy Spirit. The Christian religion can not be 
'adopted,' it is in the heart. Thus you see why it is 
that the missionaries oppose what c@uld be only a 
form and what might take the place of vital union 
with Christ, the Head of the Church." 

Matsuda pondered over these things as he went 
about his work. In the meanwhile he distributed 
many Bibles and tracts, and induced hundreds to look 

*rhis was before Mr. Neesima's death. 



THE LIGHT GROWS BRIGHTER. HI 

with greater favor upon Christianity. Still he felt a 
misgiving lest he had made a mistake. Had he that 
"new heart?" He had no evidence of it. He felt 
that he had simply put on Christianity, and that not 
from any personal need, but because he thought it 
a good means of accomplishing his designs in en- 
lightening his countrymen so that they might com- 
pare favorably with other nations. He had not 
thought of any life to come, nor of their need of a 
spiritual preparation for it. He now felt himself a 
lost man and a hypocrite. So strong did the feeling 
grow upon him that he had to give up his work and 
return home, where he greatly distressed his wife on 
telling her of his condition. Dr. Green was sent for, 
and immediately told her that she should rejoice that 
her husband had been shown his error. "Would," 
he said, "that many others now under a similar de- 
lusion might see their condition !" 

He found Matsuda a sincere penitent, and opened 
up the way of life to him in such a plain, simple man- 
ner that by the help of God he was enabled to trust 
in a crucified Saviour and not in his own schemes for 
salvation. 

On the following Sunday there was an unusually 
large attendance at church to hear Matsuda's expe- 
rience and to see him baptized, for he was now well 
known to the whole country. When he next entered 
the field it was as an evangelist. The power of the 
Most High was with him and hundreds were annually 
led to Christ through his preaching. 



112 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

Three months after his departure Jiro returned 
with his bride. To the delight of the family she was 
a sweet, sensible young woman, and a devout Chris- 
tian. Jiro paid her great respect, as is the custom 
of Japanese toward foreign ladies, or even their 
wives when in foreign dress. He spent more of his 
evenings at home now, and when he went out she 
went with him. He refrained from attacking Chris- 
tianity for fear it would offend her, and he frequently 
accompanied her to church. He remained a member 
of the S. S. S., but not with such a decided motive jiS 
at first. Jeannette dealt prudently and lovingly with 
him, and it was confidently hoped by the family that 
she might yet influence him to become a Christian, 
since he was now the only one of the family who was 
not a worker for Christ. But he belonged to the in- 
tellectual Aristocracy, and it required time and 
the Holy Spirit to bring him over. He received a 
good salary, and generously promised to send Shiro to 
America to finish his theological education. 



OUTLOOK BEFORE THE WAB. 173 



CHAPTER XX. 

OUTLOOK BEFORE THE WAR. 

TJHINGS moved along quietly with our friends till 
the Summer of 1894. A Parliament had been 
established, but on account of disagreements among 
rival parties it was dissolved by the Emperor. There 
were still some ultra- conservative leaders who favored 
restricting the privileges of foreign residents, while 
many wanted to open the entire country to those who 
wished to settle in the interior. At the beginning of 
Japan's connection with other nations, not being 
skilled in diplomacy, she had been imposed upon by un- 
favorable treaties. She was allowed only 5 per cent, 
tariff, and had no jurisdiction over foreigners, who were 
to be responsible to their respective consuls instead. 
Her crude laws at the time justified this, but by now 
she had adopted civilized legislation, and demanded 
recognition among civilized nations. In order to in- 
duce foreign countries to consent to a revision of the 
treaties, the Japanese began to require strict adher- 
ence to their side of the contract, which forbade any 
foreigner traveling in the interior without a passport, 
or from residing anywhere outside of the few treaty- 
ports. This threatened great embarrassment to the 
missionaries who were located from one end of the 
country to the other, and they began using their in- 
fluence to secure treaty revision. We are happy to 



174 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

say that during the year 1894 a satisfactory revision 
was secured to the treaties relating to England and 
the United States, thus opening the way for other 
nations to follow suit. 

To no one did this bring more happiness than to 
Matsuda. He both felt it due to his country, and 
especially desired it on account of the greater freedom 
it would secure to missionary workers. This year 
was one of great prosperity. Education was greatly 
advanced by the twenty-nine thousand elementary 
schools, the fifty schools of middle class, the more 
than forty normal schools, besides ten universities, 
one law school and ten law colleges, in all of which, 
taken together, were nearly four million pupils, with 
an annual cost to the Government of more than eight 
million dollars. ■ 

Travel and communication were also greatly ad- 
vanced by the two thousand miles of railway, ten 
thousand miles of telephone and twenty thousand 
miles of telegraph. There were now fifty thousand 
miles of postal roads; and one hundred and fifty 
million? pieces of mail going through the domestic mails 
annually, to say nothing of the million pieces that 
went to foreign countries. Out of more than seven 
hundred and twenty-five newspapers and magazines, 
one hundred and twenty were published in Tokio 
alone. The Morning Neivs of Tokio has a daily 
circulation of 100,000, and a paper of the same name 
in Osaka, 130,000 per day, yet there is not a Sunday 
paper in all Japan! Religious journals were increas- 
ing, the number then being about seventy. Over 



OUTLOOK BEFOBE THE WAB. 175 

twenty thousand books were published in the preced- 
ing year, a large part of them being by native au- 
thoi^s. The Yokohama Bible House, through Mat- 
suda and his workers, had sold during the year 
nearly five thousand Bibles, besides more than thirty 
thousand Testaments and portions of Testaments. 
Libraries were in all large cities, the one at the Im- 
perial University at Tokio having 80,000 volumes in 
European languages alone. It was by this time a 
well known fact, in which all took commendable 
pride, that in Japan a greater proportion of the peo- 
ple could read and write than in any other country in 
the world. What a change in thirty years! 

Christianity was now an acknowledged factor in the 
new civilization. There were in Tokio one hundred 
Protestant churches, and nearly three hundred more 
in the Empire, seventy-eight of which were self- 
supporting. Presbyterians led in strength among 
Protestants, though the Congregationalists were also 
very strong. In May, 1894, the Bible School at Yoko- 
hama, under the control of the Baptists, was convert- 
ed into a full-fledged Theological Seminary, with 
prospects of being highly useful in training men for 
the work. The Japan llail estimated the number of 
Christians at one hundred thousand, over half of 
whom were Greek and Roman Catholic. Among the 
more than 80,000 physicians a "Christian Doctors' 
Society" had been formed for the purpose of placing 
the Bible in the hands of every physician in the Em- 
pire. The Chief Justice of the Supreme Court was 
a Christian and President of the local Y. M. C. A. 



176 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNEISE. 




Y. M. C. A. Hall, TokiX). 



OUTLOOK BEFOBE THE WAR. 177 

In the first Diet twelve members and the Speaker 
were Christians, and two Christians held high office 
by the direct appointment of the Emperor. Thus it 
seems that the Christians formed a class that was not 
to be despised. 

Yet there are tivice as many lepers as Christians in 
Japan ! 

Shinto and Buddhism are in their death struggles, 
but the last struggles are hard ones. A desperate 
effort is being made to overthrow the new religion by 
adopting its methods. The Buddhist priests alone 
number 52,794; more than all Protestant Christians 
combined. They also have nearly one hundred thou- 
sand temples, some of which are supported by public 
money, though mainly to preserve them as relics for 
sight- seers to look at. Shinto, the State Religion, 
has 191,968 temples and shrines, and nearly fifteen 
thousand priests. 

Notwithstanding the fact that everything was 
progressing so favorably with the nation at home, 
and with its foreign relations in general, it was plain 
to those who read the signs of the times that a storm 
was soon to burst forth. While many dreaded it, yet 
the nation as a whole was anxious to see it past. 
Conservative China in her haughty arrogance had 
long despised these enterprising "Yankees of the 
East," and lost no opportunity of showing her spite^ 
Time and again, for years past, insults had been, 
borne by the Japanese, till it was fast coming to a, 
point when forbearance would cease to be a virtue. 

The peninsula of Corea, though joining China, and 



178 IN THE LAND OF THE 8UNBISE. 

under the suzerainty of the latter, was a place of 
great mercantile importance to Japan, and many- 
Japanese citizens lived there. There were many ultra- 
conservatives in Corea, and a few Japanese soldiers 
were needed to protect their countrymen. These 
were frequently interfered with by the Chinese, and 
several difficulties finally resulted in an examination 
by both powers, and the formation of a treaty, under 
which neither party was to send troops into the 
peninsula without the consent of the other, though a 
necessary force was allowed to remain for protection 
of traders. 

Having herself tasted of the good things of modern 
civilization, Japan possessed the Altruistic spirit that 
led her to desire to introduce the same advantages 
among her benighted neighbors on the Continent. 
China was mighty in extent, old in her customs, and 
very proud in her manners, so that nothing could be 
accomplished there. Corea was nearer, and though 
very old and non-progressive herself, was yet a de- 
pendent country in regard to China, and under many 
obligations to Japan. The Japanese Minister in 
Corea had great influence with the King, to whom he 
• gave many helpful suggestions as to modern progress. 
To the credit of the King, let it be said that he en- 
tered heartily into many of the reforms suggested by 
the Japanese. China, beheld this with much jeal- 
ousy, and through her Minister succeeded in arous- 
ing much opposition. The country became divided 
into two parties, the Progressionists, siding with the 
King, and the Conservatives, siding with China. The 



OUTLOOK BEFORE THE WAB. 179 

King continued to follow the advice of Japan and to 
carry out many needed reforms in the government 
and in the army, besides sending a number of intelli- 
gent young men to Japan to learn the new way. 

The Conservative element became more and more 
turbulent, and finally in the spring of 1894 they 
formed a mob and stormed the King's palace. China 
received news of the outbreak and immediately 
despatched two large armies to the peninsula, one by 
land, the other by sea, with the ostensible purpose 
of protecting the King, but really in order to defeat 
his progressive measures. The presence of this army 
was a great menace to Japan and a violation of the 
treaty made not long before with Li Hung Chang, 
viceroy of China. Japan had not ventured to send 
an army in addition to her troops already quartered 
there, though she had suffered many indignities. 
Even after the restoration of comparative quiet, 
China showed no disposition to recall her forces, and 
the situation was becoming more and more critical. 
The demands of the Japanese government were 
treated with contempt. Finally three Chinese men- 
of-war encountered and fired upon three Japanese 
cruisers. The Japanese retorted by taking one of 
the ships captive with all on board, running another 
ashore in a disabled condition, and chasing the third 
back into Chinese ports badly crippled. War was 
now on; and for her own sake, as well as for the sake 
of peace in the East, Japan felt that she must chastise 
her great ancient foe. She enlisted to fight for the 
independence of Corea, for the enlightenment of 
China, and for the honor of her own name. 



180 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 



CHAPTER XXI. 
CONFLICT AND VICTORY. 

A^ATSUDA returned home one sultry afternoon 
/ I meditating deeply upon the state of affairs that 
now confronted the country. On every corner he 
heard enthusiastic discussions as to the probable 
action of the government, which had not yet officially 
declared for war. The whole nation was in favor of 
it, and for years he had felt that it must come sooner 
or later, for nothing short of conquest would ever 
open up China to the light of civilization and relig- 
ion. Whether Japan was prepared for such a cam- 
paign was a question to be decided. He dreaded to 
have his countrymen come into contact with a bar- 
barous power, capable of the unprincipled cruelties 
that were characteristic of the Chinese. One good 
result was noticeable already. The opposing parties 
at home had now forgotten their partisan strifes, and 
had united as one mass in proclaiming their devotion 
to their country. Opposition to foreigners had 
ceased, and all respect was shown to the citizens of 
American and European countries, whence they had 
learned the arts of peace as well as of warfare. 

Matsuda had just finished drinking a cup of tea 
when a letter was handed to him from Shiro, who 
was still attending the Doshisha University at Kioto. 
Before returning for his summer vacation he had 



CONFLICT AND VICIOBY. 181 

gone with a party on the new railroad down to 
Osaka, and wrote to his parents about the wonderful 
sights he saw there. A paragraph in this letter 
caused the fond father to have greater confidence in 
the strength of the government, as well as in the sa- 
gacity of his son. It was as follows: 

"After visiting the great manufacturing industries of tlie 
metropolis, and passing through the grounds of the ancient 
royal castle, we were next allowed to go through the arsenal. 
It is true that I have never seen much of the world, and have 
but little practical knowledge of it, but after being here I am 
convinced that Japan has a force of artillery unsurpassed in 
almost any country. There we saw rows and rows of great 
guns just like those brothet* used to tell about in America. In 
fact, some were reduplications of the great German guns that 
created such a sensation at the World's Fair in Chicago. These 
guns were not imported, but made on the spot by our own crafts- 
men, and managed entirely by Japanese officers. There was 
not a foreigner connected with the whole establishment. Some 
idea of the strength and capacity of these guns may be derived 
from the statement of one of the officers, who told me that the 
whole cost of firing one of the largest was about $750. I dread- 
to see such destructive weapons used against even our foes, 
yet if that be the only way to preserve order and advance na- 
tional progress, I am in for the contest with all vay heart. We 
have a righteous cause, and I believe God will help us out." 

"A chip from the old block," said Matsuda, with a 
smile, as he folded up the long sheet and laid it in 
a little drawer. 

' 'I believe Shiro has the right conception, and I 
shall not give myself further uneasiness as to the 
probabilities. or results of the war." 

"But," said Jeannette, "suppose they should need 
more soldiers and should " 



1S2 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

She stopped and glanced hesitatingly at Jiro, who 
was sitting on the other side reading the evening 
paper. Dropping his paper and looking up quickly 
he exclaimed, 

"I would be the first to enlist !" 

"And leave me?" asked his wife reprovingly. _ 

"I pray your lofty pardon if I shocked you," re- 
plied Jiro with his old-time courtesy. "You may 
rest assured that my preference is always to be at 
your side, but when my country calls I must go. My 
ancestors died for her, and I would willingly follow 
their example. Not being a native of Dai NipjDon it 
is hard for you to understand the self-sacrificing 
spirit that is in every patriotic citizen." 

"That is my brave son," said his mother, looking 
on him with an expression of maternal pride. ' 'Your 
father is now past the meridian of life and can not be 
so active as formerly in his country's service. I am 
grateful that I have sons Avho can take his place. Be 
of good courage, my daughter, he has not yet been 
called upon, and may not be; yet if he must go we 
can foll&w him with our prayers, and I believe God 
will preserve him and the cause for which he fights." 

Jiro smiled at this pious remark, but had too much 
respect for his parents and wife to say what he 
thought. Besides, he was not so much opposed to 
Christianity now, and often sat quietly in the room 
during family worship. His respect was uncon- 
sciously growing. As it was now time for him to 
attend a club meeting he took his leave, and the con- 
versation dropped for a time. 



CONFLICT AND VICTOBY. 183 

Day by day the excitement increased. News came 
of a great victory for Japan at the mouth of the Yalu 
river. Then a fresh call was made for troops to go on 
a campaign into the interior of China, and Jiro was one 
of the new recruits. While quartered with a body of 
troops at Osaka waiting for transportation he wrote 
a letter to his family, an extract from which might 
be of interest-. He says: 

"We expect to sail for China within a few days. There are 
now quartered here several thousand soldiers. We get some- 
what lonesome and impatient, with nothing to occupy us ex- 
cept the daily drills. .While we were lounging around a few 
days ago, trying to shelter ourselves from the heat, Mr. Loomis, 
a colporteur, visited the barracks, and, contrary to the custom, 
and to the surprise of everybody, secured permission to enter 
and distribute Bibles to the soldiers. I suppose the tender 
recollections of home, and the softening influence of our early 
departure to the scene of bloodshed, must have unmanned most 
of us, for within a short while every soldier in the barracks had 
received a Bible or Testament. Some did it merely for the sake 
of politeness, but nearly all of us were willing to relieve our 
monotony by reading even the book of Yasu. I read mine with 
increasing interest, and I assure you that I no longer despise 
it, for it fills me with awe, and shows me my sins in a frightful 
way. I now dread myself more than all the weapons of the 
Chinese, and no one can accuse me of being weak. Several 
hundred of us have banded together for prayer, and if we per- 
ish in battle it will be with petitions upon our lips." 

This letter brought unspeakable comfort to the 
anxious loved ones, for they now felt that Jiro was in 
the hands of God, who would protect him. In the 
meanwhile Mr. Loomis, Matsuda and others con- 
tinued the distribution of Bibles. The Emperor had 
removed to Hiroshima in order to be nearer the seat 



184 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

of war. There were many troops quartered there, 
and a Bible was given to each. The commanders 
freely permitted religious workers to enter the 
camps, and widespread interest was the result, many 
being brought to Christ. 

Patriotism ran high throughout the land. Every 
young man aspired to be a soldier so that he might 
help to fight for his country. Mothers and sisters 
made many sacrifices to assist in raising contribu- 
tions to forward the cause. One devout old lady had 
promised to an idol that she would give $500 of her 
scanty earnings to build a temple, but when the war 
came on she besought the idol to let her give the 
money to help fight for her country. She promised 
to repay every cent, and stated that if she died be- 
fore it was paid he might send her to perdition, if 
only she might help to save the honor of her 
country. 

Cheering news continued to pour in from the field. 
The Chinese had no patriotism, no loyalty for their 
Tartar Emperor, and, as a result, their troops threw 
down th€ir arms and fled before the approach of the 
victorious Japs. After several reverses, Li Hung 
Chang, viceroy of China and General-in-chief of the 
army, was divested of his signs of rank, the yellow 
jacket and peacock feathers, and was imprisoned, be- 
ing in danger even of losing his life as an atonement 
for the defeats that he had suffered. China levied 
new troops, but they were no more successful than 
the first. The Japanese continued to march inland 
and to take port after port. The invading army used 



CONFLICT AND VICTORY. 185 

well the humane civilization they had learned from the 
West. No needless suffering was allowed. Prison- 
ers of war were treated so kindly that the natives 
preferred being captured by the Japanese to being 
subjected to the barbarities of their own troops. The 
bitter winter came on, and the besieged hoped that 
the invaders would have to retire, since they were 
unaccustomed to the rigors of such a climate. But 
the Japanese purchased sheepskins and in other ways 
protected themselves so that they made no halt in the 
prosecution of the war. China besought England 
and the United States to plead in her behalf, but they 
thought it wise not to interfere, only they offered to 
act as peace-makers if China would make proper con- 
cessions to secure peace. Port Arthur and Wei-hai- 
wei, strategic strongholds, were taken, and then 
•China sent envoys, ostensibly to sue for peace, but 
it was found that they had no authority to make a 
treaty and that the wily nation was only seeking to 
kill time. So the Japanese would not cease fighting 
until Ambassadors should come who had full author- 
ity to act for the government. At last Li Hung 
Chang was restored to position and sent to Japan on 
this important business. Japan refused to stop fight- 
ing until peace was made, but Li Hung Chang was 
attacked by a crazy young man and slightly wounded 
while on his peace commission. The offender was 
duly seized and all efforts were made to atone for the 
injury, which led the Emperor to declare an armistice 
pending further negotiations. On April 15, 1895, 
peace was formally declared and orders were given 



186 IN THE LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 

for fighting to cease. As conditions of peace China 
agreed to pay an indemnity of 200,000,000 taels,* to 
grant the independence of Corea, to cede the island 
of Formosa, and to allow Japan to hold all the terri- 
tory she had conquered on the main land. Acting, 
however, upon the "advice" of Russia, who was jeal- 
ous of such a powerful new neighbor getting a foot- 
hold on the Continent, the conquering nation gener- 
ously gave up the conquered territory of the Liao 
Tung Peninsula, and only occupied the strongholds 
temporarily till the indemnity could be paid. 

Thus ended one of the most interesting of modern 
wars. A nation of 40,000,000 conquered a nation of 
400,000,000, fulfilling the prediction that "One shall 
chase a thousand and two shall put ten thousand to 
flight." Verily a little one has become a strong na- 
tion. 

The results of the war can be seen in many ways. 
While bloodshed is always fearful and to be avoided 
if possible, yet God has made even the wrath of men 
to praise him. China has been humbled to the dust. 
She can* no longer sneer at foreign improvements. 
She will be open to Western civilization and to the 
spread of the Gospel as never before. Corea has 
also been opened for civilization and Christianity to 
flow in. In Japan herself the result has been bene- 
ficial in a large measure. A new impetus has been 
given to national life, and new opportunities have 
been opened for religious work among the soldiers. 

*A monetary unit of variable value, now worth about $1.33 in United 
States money. 



CONFLICT AND VICTOBY. 187 

In spite of the distractions of the war and the ab- 
sence of so many of the young men, the 625 mission- 
aries in Japan witnessed last year 3,422 converts up 
to December. The total membership of Protestant 
churches being now 39,240. There are 364 Protest- 
ant churches, 91 of which are self-supporting. Con- 
tributions for 1894 amounted to $36,108.86. Presby- 
terians lead with 72 churches and 11,126 members, 
Congregationalists next with 70 churches and 11,079 
members, Methodists 101 churches with 7,536 mem- 
bers, and Baptists follow with 27 churches and 2, 146 
members, having entered the field after the others. 
The Greek Catholic Church reports 22,000 members, 
and the Roman Catholic Church 49,280 adherents. 
Neither, however, have this many communicants, but 
they count all who seem to favor their cause. 

At some places officers of the army have arranged 
for Christian services in Buddhist temples for the 
benefit of sick and wounded soldiers. Chris- 
tians have shown themselves loyal, and are thus 
in greater favor with the government. Not only 
have the missionaries been allowed to distribute 
Bibles among the soldiers, but Count Ito, the 
Premier, has accepted a copy, and announced that 
the Emperor would also accept one. A hand- 
some volume is now being prepared for his Majesty. 
We may yet hear great things from it. Japanese 
Christians are now forming societies for the evangel- 
ization of the Chinese, and China may still appro- 
priately call Japan "The Land of the Sunrise," for 
from Japan is rising China's light of civilization, and 



188 IN^ THE LAND OF THE SUNBISE. 

the power of the cross of Christ. Wise men long ago 
predicted that Japan would some day sustain to the 
continent of Asia the same relation as that of Eng- 
land to Europe. Yezo, the northern island of Japan, 
is said to have enough coal to supply Great Britain 
for a thousand years. With all her natural resources, 
added to her enterprising spirit, the Island Empire 
is destined to rank among the greatest of earth. 



Jiro returned home much changed by his expe- 
riences. He was now truly regenerated, and he lost 
no time in declaring himself. What he had recently 
endured had sobered him, and at the same time en- 
thused him with a new purpose. He had never seen 
gross heathenism before as he had witnessed it in 
China. He resolved to throw his life into the great 
work of saving China's millions. Many others con- 
ceived of a similar design, and soon they are to begin 
a campaign for Christ which we hope may be more 
brilliant 'and successful than even that of recent 
fame. 

Shiro has at last started to America to college, 
supported by his older brother. It is a great mis- 
fortune that young men should have to go so far to 
be educated, especially when they could be doing 
work among their own people while at college if they 
only had well equipped institutions in their own coun- 
try. Two hundred young men in the same year 
attended the University of Berlin, Germany. It is to 



CONFLICT AND VICTORY. J89 

be hoped that the next generation will have superior 
advantages at home. 

Kiku was recently married to a young native pas- 
tor, and a bright future seems before her. Her mar- 
riage ceremony was very different from that of her 
mother many years ago. She was united to her be- 
trothed by the simple and beautiful Christian rite, 
and her home is one sanctified by Christian associ- 
ations and Christian work. She has never affected 
foreign airs, nor assumed foreign dress, in which no 
Japanese can look at ease, but is as attractive now as 
ever, and still worthy of her name, Chrysanthemum, 
the royal flower of the Land of the Sunrise. 




'•= .^ 



OH'^l 



(GOOD BYE.) 



190 APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX. 



LITERATURE ON JAPAN. 

All the following can be obtained through the Baptist Book 
Concern: 

"Japan" — By J. J. Rein, translated from the German. The 
most scientific work on the subject, as exhaustive and as dry as 
an encyclopedia. In two volumes. A. C Armstrong & Son. 
New York. 

"Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan" — A 

mine of information. 

"The Mikado's Empire"— By W. E. Griffis. Dr. G. was 
employed by the government as a teacher at the naost interest- 
ing period of the country's history, and has given us a book 
that is consulted by nearly all other writers. It treats of the 
history, manners and customs of the people, and the beginnings 
of missions. Some of its statements now need modifying. Pub- 
lished by Harper Bros. 

"Honda the Samurai" — An interesting story by the same 
author as above. A very useful and pleas-ing book. 

"The Story of Japan"— By David Murray, in the "Stories 
of the Nations" series published by Putnams. A brief, accurate 
and pleasingly written history. 

"Unbeaten Tracks in Japan" — By Isabella Bird (Bishop). 
A book written by a highly intelligent lady who traveled 
throughout the interior, and gives much information about a 
side of native life not described in other books. She lacked 
definite information about the Ainu and some other points, but 
hers is one of the best. New York. Harpers. 



APPENDIX. 191 

"Jlnrikisha Days in Japan"— By Eliza R. Skidmoie. A 
most excellent book of travels by a sensible woman. Pleasing 
style, sensible observations. I heartily recommend it. Har- 
pers. $2.00. 

"The Ainu of Japan"— By Rev. John Bachelor. The full- 
est and most accurate information In regard to the aborigines 
of Japan, by a man who spent several years among them. 
Revell. New York and Chicago. 

"An American Missionary in Japan" — By Rev. M. L. 
Gordon, M. D. A most excellent book for one who expects to 
go there as a missionary. Much information as to difficulties 
and needs. Houghton. Mif&in & Co. 

"Life and Adventures in Japan"— By F. W. Clark. 
"Missionary Library" series. A very interesting book for 
young people. American Tract Society. New York. 

"Tlie Japanese Bride" — By Naomi Tamura, a Japanese 
minister. Describes the customs of marriage and family life. 
Harpers. 50c. 

"India, China and Japan" — By Bayard Taylor. The 
author accompanied Com. Perry on his. first expedition, and de- 
scribes what he saw then. 

"Wee Ones of Japan"— By M. St. John Bramhall. A 
most delightfully written little book about those delightful lit- 
tle elfins, the children of Japan. Slightly overdraws their 
natural goodness, but well worth having. Harpers. 

"The Heal Japan" — By Henry Norman. An interesting 
treatise on th.e educational, economical and social conditions of 
Japan at the present day. Most too fond of the geisha girls, as 
is the trouble with too many wi-iters. Some things are not 
judicious to be written for popular reading. Harpers. New 
York. 

"The Japan Mail" — An excellent paper published both 
daily and weekly. ■ Unbiased. Treats of things Japanese in a 
sensible manner. Edited by Mr. Brinkley, who has been in 
Japan for many years. Yokohama, Japan. 



192 APPENDIX. 

"The Japan Evangelist" — A religious magazine written 
in choice Englisli by native Christians. Every two months^ 
$1.00 per year in United States. Published in Yokohama. 

"Japan As We Saw It" — By Robt. S. Gardiner, is about 
the best book for a tourist going to see Japan, and it is good for 
those who can not go. Its illustrations are unsurpassed. Bos- 
ton. Rand- A very Supply Co. 

"Japanese Girls and Women" — By Alice Bacon. Bos- 
ton. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. 

"Japan; Its History, Traditions and Relig-ion" — By 

Sir Edw. Reid. London. John Murray. 

There are many other useful works that might be mentioned, 
but these will be sufficient for an ordinary reader. There are 
many things written by sentimental and worldly visitors to 
Japan which can not be conscientiously recommended. "The 
Missionary Review of the World," New York, Funk & 
Wagnalls, gives the latest news from the field. 



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